We've all heard the warnings about overwashing our hair, but what about not washing it enough? Vogue highlights the signs that suggest it's time to lather up more often than you think
Is there a better feeling than freshly washed hair? Probably not. But as much as we all love having clean hair, washing it can be an exhausting and time-consuming task — more of a chore than a treat. The simplest solution is to bridge the gap with heaps of dry shampoo, but as it turns out, that’s not always such a good idea. If you wash your hair too infrequently, you risk scalp problems that can even lead to hair loss. Looking for signs that you don’t wash your hair enough? It’s not always that simple.
How often should I wash my hair?
It depends on a few factors. If your scalp is dry and you don’t use many styling products, it may be enough to wash your hair once a week — Julia Roberts supposedly follows this routine. However, this is not a universal rule.
Do you style your hair a lot? Do you use a lot of dry shampoo? Do you already have dandruff? Is your scalp oily? These are all factors that might mean you should be washing your hair more often, i.e. every two to three days. While washing your hair too often can damage it, washing it too infrequently can also have less-than-desirable consequences.
5 signs that you aren’t washing your hair enough
It is difficult to generalise how often you should actually wash your hair. If you experience one or more of the below warning signs, try experimenting with how often you wash your hair. Or, if doubt, consult a professional dermatologist.
Here are five signs that you might need to wash your hair more regularly:
1. Greasy hair
The most obvious signs you are washing your hair too infrequently are greasy roots and lack of volume. If you don’t regularly wash the excess sebum from your scalp, hair will become stringy and heavy. For some people, this happens as little as one day after washing. For others, it takes longer. Incidentally, oily hair is not only visible, but it can smell, too—the mix of dead skin cells and sebum on the scalp actually forms an ideal breeding ground for bacteria, which can lead to an unpleasant “head odour.” Yikes.
2. Dandruff formation
Dandruff is not necessarily a sign of infrequent hair washing, but our scalp continuously produces sebum, an oily secretion that protects and moisturises the skin and hair. If the hair is washed infrequently, sebum can accumulate on the scalp.
At the same time, skin cells die and are constantly renewed. When hair is washed infrequently, these dead cells remain on the scalp for longer, leading to a build-up of dirt, oil, and dead skin particles. This accumulation creates an ideal environment for the proliferation of microorganisms, such as the yeast fungus Malassezia, which lives naturally on the scalp. Increased sebum production and a lack of cleansing can cause this fungus to multiply.
This is because Malassezia feeds on the fats in the sebum, and when they multiply, by-products are released that can irritate the scalp. This irritation then leads to increased cell production and accelerated skin desquamation, which becomes visible as dandruff.
3. Itchy scalp
An itchy scalp doesn’t just signify dryness caused by overly frequent washing, but it’s also an indication that you aren’t washing your hair enough. I know, annoying! Conditioning and styling products, dirt, sweat, and dead skin cells can accumulate on the scalp. This build-up provides an ideal breeding ground for microorganisms, such as the aforementioned Malassezia yeast, which not only promotes dandruff but also by-products that can irritate the scalp and cause itching. Not cleansing the scalp enough also promotes skin diseases such as seborrhoeic dermatitis, which is accompanied by itching.
4. Dull hair
Is your hair dull? This could be due to build-up from styling and care products, which roughen the hair surface and make it less able to reflect light—especially if you use a lot of dry shampoo between washes. This is because the powder particles it contains make the hair look dull, but a deep cleansing shampoo can bring hair back to life, especially when combined with a shine-enhancing conditioner.
5. Hair loss
Increased hair loss could also indicate that you aren’t washing your hair enough. One of the most common causes of hair loss—that is indirectly associated with infrequent shampooing—is seborrheic dermatitis. This condition is characterised by an overproduction of sebum and the growth of the aforementioned Malassezia yeast fungi on the scalp.
If the scalp is insufficiently cleansed, this sebum production can increase and promote the proliferation of Malassezia, which leads to inflammation and irritation. Chronic inflammation of the scalp can then lead to hair loss. However, it’s worth noting that the studies on this are not yet solid. Regular washing helps keep the scalp healthy and free from irritation, and the hair also retains its natural shine.
Originally published on Vogue.com