The Danish capital’s bakery scene is on the rise. Here are the breadmakers you need to know.
Pre pandemic, hipster hotspots all over Copenhagen were already starting to serve up their own twist on the conventional pastry. But when lockdown forced a number of restaurants to try something new, creativity in this sector really took off.
Led by a heavy dusting of ex-pastry chefs from world-beating restaurant Noma, new eateries and redeveloped spaces have opened from Nordvest to Islands Brygge, offering experimental reworkings of old classics, super chic brunch spots, and little hangouts with an outsized vibe. Combine with the original hipster bakery-patisseries and their innovative bakes, and you’re in for a treat.
Here are just six of the best in the Danish capital:
Andersen
Rows of perfectly formed candy-coloured cakes sit on the beautiful counter of this Japanese-Danish bakery-patisserie in Islands Brygge. Renowned for its sweet treats, it’s the perfect first stop on this whistle stop tour of Copenhagen bakeries.
The people behind the Danish cake of the year back in 2019, Andersen offers beauty and precision with its unique pastries and cakes. Its rhubarb and custard croissants are dusted with hot pink powdered rhubarb, the cardamom buns are full flavoured and aromatic - and we couldn’t recommend them more.
Apotek 57
Get to this hotspot a couple of streets from Amalienborg Palace as early as you can: Apotek 57 is über chic and very popular.
Set in the beautiful Frama studio store, it’s a busy brunch spot on weekends where chef Chiara Barla serves up seasonal bites and some very delicious-looking granola, ricotta on toast and pastry treats. Don’t miss the unique and stunning round croissants – crispy, buttery and sweet, they are as good-looking as its surroundings.
Eat here, then shop next door, and that’s your perfect Saturday morning done.
Bageriet Benji
Opened in May 2021, Bageriet Benji is the newest venture for Rasmus Kristensen, former head of bread and cakes at noma. Named after his son Benji, the bakery is in hip Nørrebro and specialises in sourdough and pastries.
The luxurious spandauer pastries with Noire vanilla are worth the trip alone, and whatever you do, don’t miss the almond croissants. Crunchy, with a delicate and delicious balance of flavours and textures, they are exceptional.
The bakery might be just in its infancy, but it’s shaping up to be one of the best in town.
Hart Brød & Bar
This is the second outpost of the Hart Brød & Bar bakery brand, led by another ex-noma baker with a stellar reputation, Richard Hart. As the name suggests, it’s a bakery and a bar – with wines selected by noma’s sommelier – making it a unique spot to visit.
Opening in a new location close to the Royal Opera House from mid November 2021, the brand is well known for its skills with sourdough. Take your pick from hot dogs – they wrap their sausages in croissant dough – to sweet, buttery cardamon croissants, and take a sourdough loaf home as well.
Juno
Queues forming halfway down the cobbled street outside are a regular feature at Juno in Østerbro, run by yet another of noma’s ex-pastry chefs, Emil Glaser. It’s got a definite Swedish vibe – its cardamom pastries are very popular, and the indescribably delicious pillowy soft cream bun is injected with cream and blueberry jam from Sweden.
Watching the pastry chefs put the finishing touches on their divine creations through the glass window to the kitchen helps take the sting out of the queue. Once you’ve eaten, you’ll want to go back for more.
Sneezing Fruits
Jazz wafts through the air from the corner turntable along with the scent of coffee at this much talked-about new coffee shop, Sneezing Fruits in Islands Brygge.
A bijou snack stop hidden in the same courtyard as Michelin-starred restaurant Alouette and just down the street from Vipp’s chic Supper Club, Sneezing Fruits opened in September 2021. The little sister to the much-loved bakery Alice in nearby Amager, it sells a small selection of croissants, brownies and sourdough rolls baked at Alice and cycled here, and is big on the hipster vibe.