As the seasons begin to change, harsh winds, cooler weather and dehydrating heating systems can sap the moisture from our skin. Below, Vogue Scandinavia has the solution
We all know that dreaded dry skin feeling. From tightness to flakes and rough patches, to the pilling of make-up, when the skin gets dry, it loses its smooth texture.
As explained by David Kim, MD, New York City-based board-certified dermatologist at Idriss Dermatology, dryness occurs when your skin barrier is compromised and results in dull, flaky and inflamed skin. Clinically known as xerosis, it is caused by a lack of moisture or oil in the skin.
“Dry skin can result from a multitude of factors that affect skin health and hydration,” adds New York City-based board-certified dermatologist Michelle Henry, MD. Environmental factors, such as dry air exposure to the cold, lifestyle choices like using harsh skincare ingredients, underlying medical conditions, and the natural ageing process can all contribute to the dry skin on our faces and bodies.
It’s pretty easy to tell when you’re experiencing dryness. Daniel Belkin, MD, board-certified dermatologist at New York Dermatology Group, says symptoms of dry skin include complexion dullness, fine flaky skin, tightness, or an increase in fine wrinkling. If it’s more severe, Belkin says you might be feeling itchy.
Luckily, treating it is just as simple as spotting it. Below are seven easy simple tips to treat the dry skin on your face. As the temps start to cool, you’ll want to keep this guide handy.
Wash your face with warm, not hot, water
One of the golden beauty rules we should all live by is to never ever wash your face, hair, or body with hot water (no matter how soothing it may feel). When it comes to our skin, a hot shower or bath can cause inflammation and disrupt the skin barrier, making dry skin even worse.
Henry says it’s best that to cleanse with warm water. Follow up with a gentle cleanser that’s geared towards dry skin.
Apply moisturiser while skin is damp
It’s best to apply moisturiser when your skin is still damp, so be sure not to dry skin immediately after you cleanse.
Look for hydrating ingredients
The best – and most obvious – tip is to find products with hydrating and moisturising ingredients. Belkin says that moisturisers come in several forms, with some products utilising more than one in a single formulation. The three most common forms are emollients, humectants and occlusives.
Emollients aim to smooth and lubricate the outermost layer of the epidermis and include ingredients such as ceramides and silicones. Humectants, he says, are ingredients that absorb water, such as hyaluronic acid, glycerin, honey and lactic acid. And occlusives are ingredients that prevent moisture loss and support the skin barrier, and those include waxes, petrolatum and oils.
Henry says that you’ll want to look for something that rebuilds the skin barrier, relieves irritation and prevents further damage, but also something that is gentle for even the most sensitive skin. Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Cream is suitable for all skin types and contains glycerin for deep long-lasting hydration.
Exfoliate with a humectant
Exfoliating isn’t all that bad for dry skin – as long as you do it properly. Belkin recommends you consider gentle chemical exfoliators, such as lactic acid. We love Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 6% Mandelic Acid + 2% Lactic Acid Liquid Exfoliant, which is both an alpha hydroxy acid and humectant.
Stay away from any forms of physical exfoliation, which can further disrupt the skin barrier, and products with glycolic and salicylic acid as they may cause more irritation to dry skin.
Avoid alcohol, fragrance and other harsh ingredients
“Dry skin means the skin barrier is somewhat disrupted,” explains Belkin. “This means that environmental allergens and irritants can cause more damage. Known irritants should be avoided.”
He lists tea tree oil, menthol, alcohol, acetone, fragrance and botanical oils as some of the ingredients to be cautious of. Henry agrees and adds parabens, sulphates, any forms of retinoids or retinol, benzoyl peroxide and other harsh exfoliants to the list of things to avoid.
Don’t over-wash your face
While Kim says that your cleanser matters more than the frequency you wash your face (“I recommend using a gentle cleanser every night,” he advises), you still need to be mindful of doing too much.
“You can over-wash your face,” says Belkin. He recommends avoiding harsh soaps, like foaming cleansers that tend to be more drying, and avoid anything with strong actives, like the ingredients listed above. You’ll want to stick to oil-, balm-, or cream-based cleansers that are also gentle on the skin.
In-office treatments
And for when you’re looking for a stronger treatment option, there are in-office solutions you can turn to. Belkin says skin boosters, which are hyaluronic acid-based products injected directly into the dermis for hydration, will increase humectant levels in the dermis. These boosters won’t increase volume in your face like fillers, but they will give skin a dewy finish.
However, if you stick to the at-home tips above, you won’t need it. “Treating dry skin is best done with gentle skincare habits at home,” he says.
Originally published on British Vogue