Fashion

A. Roege Hove - AW25

By Eleanor Kittle

A. Roege Hove kickstarts the second day of Copenhagen Fashion Week with a revelation of a collection that redefines its approach to knitwear, imbued with elegance, symmetry and seduction

While some designers travel from afar to showcase their new collections in the Danish capital, Copenhagen-based brand A. Roege Hove opted to make the most out of its locale. Keeping things close to home – as close as possible – it presented its autumn/winter '25 collection in the same industrial building that houses its studio. With knitting machines still humming in the background, the brutalist setting created a perfect juxtaposition for ethereal, sheer and sultry knitwear that glided down the runway.

The show, entitled “shapes”, delivered exactly what was promised: a symphony of shapes and silhouettes. It was the garment's technical mastery that drew the eye more than the colour palette, which was quite neutral compared to its SS25 collection, with the only dose of colour via some decisive pops of burgundy. Re-invented geometric rib patterns, which, when stretched, according to designer Amalie Røge Hove, “appear as small squares building up the piece,” were shown alongside a continuous stream of symmetry, stripes and orderly cutouts. All of these, which followed the brand’s continuing sculptural motif, were set off simply by the fabrication of the collection.

“We are focusing a lot on wool for this autumn/winter,” says Røge Hove. While wool for autumn/winter may not seem groundbreaking, for this brand, it “is a little atypical of us,” says the designer of the label that habitually works with nylon. Worked it into barely-there diaphanous knits and playful flouncy hemlines, the use of wool helped spearhead the label's new way of interacting with the female form. Accessories that included balaclavas, fingerless gloves and skinny scarves repurposed into ties were accompanied by tights, all came in the same delicate weave. Soft and seductive in their sheerness, garments appeared to drift away from the skin to create new, gauzy lines.

See the full A. Roege Hove AW25 collection below.