Exploring the juxtaposition between urban life and nature, Acne Studios creative director Johnny Johansson presented an autumn/winter 2025 collection that mashed up business attire with country house staples
Though guests entered the autumn/winter 2025 Acne Studios show through a lush purple curtain, inside, they discovered a landscape that was a bit more dystopian. Skyscraper-like metal structures jutted up from the runway, juxtaposed against woven rock-like sculptures created by Swedish design duo Front, nodding to a craggy coastline in the Swedish archipelago. It’s this contrast between urban and nature in which creative director Jonny Johansson found the collection. “A Nordic upbringing develops a deep connection to nature,” he says. “Nature and urban cities have always had a relation that fascinates me. It is the tension and contrast between the two of them that I have tried to portray within this collection.”
Set to a rework of Björk’s ‘Human Behaviour’ (the Icelandic icon herself “curated” the track, which was remixed by Helsinki-based artist Exmantera), models wore looks that married the starkly urban with relaxed, country house aesthetics. The classic lusekofta sweater – a staple in country homes across Scandinavia – becomes an unexpectedly sexy bodysuit or teeny tiny dress, worn with sky-high, pavement-friendly heels. Another cabin staple, long johns, is reimagined in second-skin black and red leather. Fuzzy structured faux fur dresses appear either as a rework of a classic cabin throw or, in a more literal interpretation, turn models into urbanised forest creatures. Speaking of creatures, the print of the season is a washed-out bear, which appears on two delicate sheer dresses, bringing the harshness and beauty of nature to black tie.
On the distinctly city side of things, there is the tailoring, which finds soft, rounded shoulders and slim trousers in a palette of smoggy grey and black. The shoe of the season is that puffy felt boot – cosy, practical footwear perfect for traversing city streets or rocky shorelines. But the most glaring takeaway? Pants are, by and large, out. Acne Studios has spoken.
See the full Acne Studios AW25 collection below:
