Adnym – AW25

While many have embraced the suit and tie for autumn/winter '25, Swedish brand Adnym’s take is a little cooler, a little less polished. Dubbed ‘Bourgeois Bohème’, the collection embraces the devil-may-care energy of Paris in the late '60s and early '70s, where creative intellectuals in oversized button-down shirts and beat-up blazers chain-smoked and drank cheap red wine at crowded cafes. “They were smoking, drinking wine and not giving a shit,” says Adnym co-founder Frippe Persson. “But they were still wearing expensive jackets – because they had money. So they looked dressed up but the tie was a bit loose and the shirt was sticking out.” Featured prominently on the moodboard is Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin.

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But Adnym also drew upon more modern flâneurs, not from Paris but Hollywood. Namely, the pre-grunge party crowd –Johnny Depp, Winona Ryder – who also favoured a dressed down blazer and a good pair of jeans. “You would see Johnny Depp wearing a really expensive Armani coat but he was wearing a worn down t-shirt and ripped jeans,” says Persson.

The collection embraces this rumpled ethos, finding relaxed triple-pleated trousers (“If someone asks ‘what is Adnym?’ I show them these,” notes Persson) and oversized button downs, meant to be worn untucked with a loosened striped silk tie. Elsewhere, a pair of straight-cut chocolate brown velvet pants straight from the Gainsbourg playbook are paired with an oversized red mohair cardigan that reads almost-grunge. A billowy off-white button-down, meanwhile, is paired with a trusty pair of light-wash denim and black cowboy-is boots that beg to be beat up over time. Speaking of grunge, there’s that asymmetric plaid skirt, that embodies a more modern take on that relaxed attitude.

The main event is, of course, the suit, which featured both ladylike cropped jackets and borrowed-from-the-boys relaxed blazers. But the offering begs a mix-and-match approach, in which cosy sweaters, tailored trousers and, yes, denim can be styled to suit ones mood and any locale but the boardroom.