With its 10th anniversary collection ‘From Within’, the Swedish streetwear trailblazer simultaneously pauses for reflection and powers forward. We catch up with the brand's head of ready-to-wear and creative, Jens Werner, to find out more
It’s hard to believe it was a decade years ago that Axel Arigato burst onto the streetwear scene with its refreshing Japandi minimalism and unyielding stance on sustainability. In that relatively short time, the Gothenburg-based label has expanded far beyond its original footwear repertoire to embrace a like-minded community as a lifestyle and culture platform present across the world.
As this year's milestone anniversary rolled around, the Axel Arigato team chose to mark the occasion with a special 'love letter' of a spring/summer collection across footwear and ready-to-wear – the latter of which we hone in on with Jens Werner, Axel Arigato’s head of ready-to-wear & creative. “Being the newest category, there isn’t a vast archive – or rather, there’s no archive at all,” he says. “Instead, we found inspiration in key design elements that have been part of the brand universe.”
The first stop in the team’s introspective tour of the brand universe? Their stores, which Axel Arigato has always treated much like gallery spaces. “We were inspired by the architecture of our stores – particularly the clash of very sharp, architectural, brutal shapes in concrete and stone,” Werner says, “and the organically-shaped and colourful objects of Swedish-based British artist Jon Buck.”
We built silhouettes that change in motion. They appear differently when dancing – playing with detachable layers, draping and wrapping, to create a dynamic look.
Jens Werner, head of ready-to-wear & creative at Axel Arigato
Next up, the team looked to Axel Arigato's inextricable link with the music and dance scene over the last decade, giving focus to movement. “We built silhouettes that change in motion,” Werner explains. “They appear differently when dancing – playing with detachable layers, draping and wrapping, to create a dynamic look.”
The outcome is the aptly named ‘From Within’ collection. In Werner’s words, the uses “fun, playful elements with minimal, clean Scandinavian influences. A true collision of streetwear and luxury.” Most notably, the team developed its own fabrics for the collection, including a double A jacquard inspired by bubble-like in-store podiums. “We wanted to create a special, seasonal material to celebrate our 10 years, iterating it in some of our best selling and iconic shapes such as a varsity jacket, and a short sleeve shirt. Other materials were picked carefully to blend day and evening wear. Textured, dimensional knits are combined with clean, more elegant weaves, allowing the pieces to be styled up and down, depending on occasion,” Werner says.
The womenswear aspect of the ready-to-wear collection delves into a wider breadth of silhouettes and premium fabrics than seen from Axel Arigato before. Stand-outs include a distressed leather blazer with sharp shoulder tailoring, and anallover signature 'A' monogram that Werner says “will make an appearance throughout the years”.
Elsewhere, a surprisingly versatile trench coat that Werner calls out as his favourite piece of the collection. “There are so many details and features to explore,” he says of the trench. “It has different lengths and a double-layered upper that allows for so many styling options.”
Photo: Axel Arigato
'From Within' is a collection that epitomises what the world has come to love about Axel Arigato, its distinctive design identity. “Detail, quality, fabrication and proportions are key. The aim is to create product that is unique, has personality and expression, and at the same time is widely understandable and approachable,” says Werner.
So what can we expect from Axel Arigato's young ready-to-wear in the decade to come? “The dream is to dress our growing community with a “diverse uniform” that anyone feels comfortable and confident in,” Werner responds. “I see ready-to-wear as a 'brand narrator', creating a world around our sneakers, to put our different silhouettes into context. We want to tell stories, sometimes stretched over more than one or two seasons, that explain the brand and our design roots.’
The SS24 'From Within' is available now online and in-store, with a second drop planned for end of February.