The best places to eat and drink in Riga, Latvia’s under-the-radar hotspot

There’s something happening in Riga. Set against the backdrop of its extraordinary old town (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) and ornate Art Nouveau architecture is an emerging food, drinks and culture scene with a no-nonsense flare that’s both unpretentious and effortlessly cool. Add to that a charming beach town that’s notably Hamptons-esque (really) and you have an alluring weekend destination just a short flight (or boat ride, depending) from the Nordic capitals.

Below, we break down the must-see places to eat, drink and visit whilst visiting the Latvian capital. In short, the perfect Riga retreat.

Just recently opened, Māsa is an instant favourite among Riga’s local cool crowd. No surprise there – it hits all the right notes: excellent design (the interiors – which are so pleasing they’ll have you rethinking the look of your own home – come courtesy of renowned Ukrainian architecture firm Balbek Bureau), excellent, locally-sourced food and one signature twist: it’s gluten-free. And trust me, readers, when you taste the bread, which comes courtesy of sister cafe Better Bread, you will not believe it. Fluffy, delicious, how-do-they-do-it bread aside, the menu includes share-friendly small plates (beef tartar, trout crudo, a shockingly good cabbage dish) and heftier offerings like veal cheeks served with polenta and fresh tagliatelle with prawns. Save room for dessert and save time to mull around, drinking wine and chatting with the staff.

Scandinavians with an aptitude for low-key (sort of) multi-course fine dining will feel right at home at Barents, a minimally (and exceptionally) designed destination offering a tasting menu built around Northern ingredients. Chef Dzintars Kristovskis and his team are perfectly plating melt-in-your-moth scallops, truffle-heavy croquettes and crudo in the shape of a rose. And if the tasting menu is too daunting, there’s also a la carte and a more relaxed cocktail bar, also serving bites and bar food (including both a fish and a venison burger). You will leave impressed with every detail from the well-curated playlist full of Scandic-produced deep-cuts to the attractive purse stools to the many table-side pours and flourishes.

Related: Ditch your travel craving with this very Scandi-inspired guide to New York City

Located in Old Town with an old-meets-new-school charm, 3 pavāru restorāns is the brainchild of, you guessed it, three renowned Latvian chefs (a charming concept given the famously not-so-collaborative nature of fine dining). The tasting menu on offer isn’t dainty and delicate, it’s unapologetically rich and substantial, peppered with add-ons like a full skewer of wagyu and a generous scoop of local caviar. Playful and decidedly unpretentious, this place will charm the socks off anyone. You’ll leave many hours after you come, stuffed and satisfied.

A spacious seafood restaurant with soaring ceilings and vitrine of hanging fish bones, Tails ideal for leisurely, wine-soaked group dinners centred around seafood platters, trays of oysters and even an upscale fish taco or two (the joint’s take on fish sticks is also a can’t-miss).

Truff Le Pig has everything one is looking for in a wine bar. That is to say sleek yet comfortable interiors (the cozy round table towards the entrance is prime seating), welcoming, goofy staff, solid snacking options and, of course, great wine (oh, and a handful of outdoor tables for the warmer months). The sort of spot that will make you (or, specifically, me) say “if this wine bar was in my city, I would come here all the time.”

Related: 4 wonderful natural wine bars to visit in Helsinki

A hip Japanese-themed cocktail bar with expertly curated records, coffee-shop-at-night ambiance and an eclectic crowd? That's WCMW . No notes.

Through an alley, behind an unmarked door and down some candlelit stairs you’ll find Nosaints, a speakeasy that strips away all that speakeasy pretension to offer a mellow, hip-hop-backed vibe, romantic lighting and great cocktails (organised by strength for easy navigation). Special shout out to the lovely bartender Danielle, who recommended a couple of the places in this guide.

A Latvian hipster paradise, Kanepes Culture Centre is bustling, fun and low-key. Grab a table, grab a beer and let the hours slip away.

Riga’s many riches don’t stop at food and drink. There’s a burgeoning art scene to match, with buzzy contemporary gallery KIM? leading the charge and the art centre Zuzeum (it’s the home of the Zuzāns Collection, the largest private collection of Latvian art in the world).

No one wants to return from a weekend away empty-handed. On the shopping front there’s Northern Grip, a Kristen Stewart-approved vintage shop that’s long on Carhartt workwear and denim. Last but certainly not least, there’s Backdoor Market, an upcycle-heavy Latvian streetwear brand that oft has pop-ups in the summertime (this time around, it was in collaboration with Kalve Coffee, the local hipster coffee roasters of choice). This summer the space also hosted concerts, cook-outs and, on the evening I attended, an impressive dance battle.

Once you’ve covered all that, take the 25-minute drive to Jūrmala, a swanky Latvian beach town with powdery sands, high-end eateries and quaint antique shops. The Hamptons of the Baltics.

To stay, opt for A22 if you’re looking for a modern, no-fuss boutique (yes, the sign is stylised in the A24 font) or Grand Hotel Kempinski for old world opulence.