Don’t ruin your lengthy lashes when going waterproof this winter season. Instead, heed the advice of the experts as they share all the tips to try (and pitfalls to avoid) for damage and streak-free application, and see Vogue Scandinavia editor's top product picks
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Come rain or shine, winter sun or snowstorm, we can all attest that this is the season that brings a beauty conundrum we must solve: smudging mascara. Whether we're tearing up at the holidays, bracing against biting winds, or dealing with a snowy forecast, racoon eyes tend to be an unwelcome addition to our beauty looks.
Love it or hate it, the divisive product to solve these woes is waterproof mascara. While some adore the smudge-free formula for the sturdy lift it gives unruly lashes, some detest the need for oil-based makeup remover. But one thing is sure: when applied correctly, waterproof mascara isn't going anywhere. Trudge through the watery-eye-inducing cold, and worry not: your look will be secure.
Below, discover how to nail application like a celebrity makeup artist and whether wearing waterproof mascara every day may actually harm your lashes
What are the benefits of using waterproof mascara?
The benefit of using waterproof mascara is, of course, its staying power, according to Finnish makeup artist Riku Campo, whose work has graced the faces of Cindy Crawford, Gwyneth Paltrow, Anne Hathaway, Emily Ratajkowski, to name a few. "It will last for someone with more watery eyes, even for weddings and other more emotional events," Campo says
For Vilde Feste, senior makeup artist for MAC Cosmetics Nordics who is a fixture backstage at Copenhagen Fashion Week, the biggest perk of waterproof mascara is that the lashes look "exactly how you want them" all day. "The curl stays, no smudging or fading. I love a waterproof mascara for the gym or an active lifestyle, going on vacation or an event," she remarks.
Is it OK to wear waterproof mascara everyday?
While you can use waterproof every day, it is not recommended. The waxes and silicones are what make waterproof mascara more resilient against sweat, tears, and water, but the usual ingredients in a waterproof formula (such as isododecane and cyclopentasiloxane) can dry out your lashes, leaving them lacklustre and with the potential for falling out. The best comparison is long-wear lipstick, which may last forever but leaves lips feeling cracked and dehydrated.
The key to using waterproof mascara regularly is the removal process. Sleeping with built-up mascara can be the death of long lashes. Beyond finding the right product, it is important to be mindful of how you remove it: "Don’t scrub too hard on the eye area," says Feste.
What is the best way to apply waterproof mascara?
For long-lasting, tear-proof, weather-proof and snow-proof lashes, just start at the base of your lashes and wiggle the wand up towards the ends. "And one layer of mascara only," warns Campo. "The more layers you add, the more dry it starts to look." For Feste, it all comes down to the wand. "Find a brush you love," she says. Next is texture: "I prefer a waterproof mascara that is more wet so I have more playtime when applying it," she says. "If needed, use a mascara comb to separate the lashes," Campo adds.
For Linda Hallberg, the colour-loving founder of Swedish LH cosmetics, it is important to take your time when applying waterproof mascara. "If you are not used to it, it might be an idea to use shadow shields to protect the eyeshadow," she says. "You can also apply the mascara before eyeshadow or eyeliner to minimise the risk for smudging the mascara onto your skin." If you do mess up and smudge the eyelid, let it dry before you remove it. "When it’s dry it’s easy to remove it with a cotton swab," says Feste.
Why does my waterproof mascara still run and smudge?
It is simple: oil is your enemy when it comes to waterproof formulas. "Remember, waterproof mascara is water proof, not oil proof," says Hallberg. Even if your skin isn't naturally oily, sweat can cause mascara to run. "So if you have oily skin, it might smudge under your eyes or under your eyebrows," continues Hallberg. The issue can easily be avoided with a good primer and powder or eyeshadow.
As for other means to set yourself up for success, cleansing your face from natural oils is the first step. Follow with a light moisturising face formula and avoid the area close to your lash line. Let any products absorb before applying makeup to prevent formulas from mixing and smudging.
Does waterproof mascara help tame unruly lashes?
Waterproof mascara is a godsend for those with straight, unruly lashes. "Waterproof mascara has lower or no water content at all which makes the formula a bit more dry and it won’t weigh down your lashes as a regular mascara does," says Hallberg. "It will naturally make the lashes stay curved and curled longer time," adds Campo.
To ensure the staying power of a curled lash, Campo suggests reaching for a blow dryer. "Warm up the rubber part of the eyelash curler with a blow dryer, just for three to five seconds so it’s warm – not hot," the Finnish makeup artist says. "The heat curls the lashes even more. And right after apply the waterproof mascara," he finishes. Never use an eyelash curler on painted lashes as they might snap and break in half.
Can I put waterproof mascara over regular mascara to make it waterproof?
While applying a coat of waterproof mascara over regular mascara will keep your lash look waterproof, layering up product may not be the best solution. While it may be slightly easier to remove than just using waterproof mascara, it can also make your lashes look clumpy and unnatural as waterproof mascara is designed to seal tightly around your lashes, causing regular mascara to clump and stick together. Even if you stick to layering waterproof mascara, the result may be less than ideal: "if you multi-layer the waterproof mascara, your lash look will look very dry," says Campo.
If you do want to layer up your your mascara, apply the regular formula first and wait for it to dry completely before applying the waterproof one. And when you're removing your makeup, be gentle and use a high-quality makeup remover that's specifically designed for waterproof mascara.
What is the best way to remove waterproof mascara?
There's a right way and a wrong way when removing waterproof mascara. As we've previously mentioned, waterproof mascara can ward off H2O but easily breaks down when it comes into contact with oil. As such, the best way to remove waterproof mascara is to use an oil-based makeup remover. "It dissolves the mascara quickly and gentle without to much movement. You can also use a micellar water on cotton pads and leave it on the eyes for a while," says Feste. Hallberg concurs, saying that her favourite way to remove stubborn waterproof mascara is "with a two phase remover or a cleansing oil together with a cotton pad. If you have a good one it’s easy to remove any mascara."
The best waterproof mascaras to buy in 2024:
The overall best in test: Diorshow Iconic Overcurl Waterproof Mascara by Dior
The investment: Diorshow Iconic Overcurl Waterproof Mascara by Dior
The steal: 2000 Calorie Waterproof Volume Mascara by Max Factor
The best for volume: 2000 Calorie Waterproof Volume Mascara by Max Factor
The best for a natural look: Nordic Berry Curl Mascara by Lumene
The best for easy removal: 38°C by Sensai
The best for smudge-free application: Wonder Perfect Mascara 4D Waterproof by Clarins
The best for long-lasting lashes: High Impact Waterproof Mascara by Clinique
Diorshow Iconic Overcurl Waterproof Mascara by Dior
One editor in our testing panel exclaimed that it "felt like wearing fake lashes," while still being "buildable and natural." That said, this waterproof mascara may not be for those who look for a barely-there affair as the "immediate volume" takes some getting used to. Designed to work with different types of lashes, the curved brush will define, coat and fan the fringe of your lashes to the extreme.
Dior's unbudgeable waterproof mascara truly made it through 24h*; one of our editor's even put it through a red-eye flight and still turned up in arrivals looking as fresh (and feather-lashed) as a daisy.
What we like about the product:
- Provides great curl and length, with immediate volume
- The glossy, shiny finish offers a luxurious feel
- The curved brush coats every lash evenly
What we dislike about the product:
- When applied too thickly, it dries out with a tendency to flake
- It needed a dedicated oil-based eye makeup remover to remove completely
2000 Calorie Waterproof Volume Mascara by Max Factor
A familiar favourite, some of our editors have been using a version of the 2000 Calorie Volume Mascara by Max Factor since their teens. But even though it is a trusted staple in our makeup bags, one editor found herself “impressed by the ultra-fine brush and bristles on closer inspection,” noting that “it’s the perfect mascara for detangling every single one of those hard-to-reach lashes.”
Quick to dry, this voluminous wonder even held up during the wedding of our panellist’s sister. Though no tears actually dropped it still withstood “a couple of outfit changes and a hectic day” while staying smudge-free. The real test? A sweaty spin class. “Even post-work out, my mascara was smudge-free and looked radiant, although I couldn’t say the same for the rest of me,” says another editor.
What we like about the product:
- The bristles are very well-spaced, which helps to separate and define the lashes
- The formula is thick, meaning it is easy to get a lot of product on the brush for added dramatics
What we dislike about the product:
- When applying, it required some finessing to avoid the eyelid
- A bit too hard to remove for everyday wear
Nordic Berry Curl Mascara by Lumene
The common consensus in the testing panel when it came to Finnish Lumene's waterproof mascara was an undeniable appreciation for the wand. "I LOVE it," said one particularly enthusiastic editor, specifying the "great streamlined bristles" working in combination with its smooth formula meant "no clumps even on the wand."
Another panellist, a fan of that barely-there look, said that this is the only brush she will consider using from now on. Especially designed to lift and curl short, straight lashes, both formula and brush give a truly eye-opening effect whatever your lash type. "Its a perfect stroke each time," says one panellist. "Just perfect."
What we like about the product:
- According to one panellist: "No dislikes what-so-ever"
- The brush is specifically designed to lift straight, short lashes
- The formula is certifiably clump-free, leaving each lash thinly coated for a natural result
What we dislike about the product:
- A good everyday mascara, but the tricky removal is a disadvantage
38°C by Sensai
The biggest pro that the 38°C by Sensai has going for it is its easy removal process requiring little else but a wash cloth and some hot water. The only product to receive a solid 10/10 from one panellist, who said that the product was "worth every single penny." "Even though it is so easy to remove, it still manages to stay on and smudge-free all day long – with great volume and lash definition to boot."
As for first impressions, another panellist said the application felt "a bit sticky at first" but quickly "settled nicely and more smoothly when applied." The result is subtle but provides immense length and separation of lashes, making it the "perfect everyday mascara," according to one tester.
What we like about the product:
- Easy to remove with a wash cloth and hot water
- The brush is specifically designed to lift straight, short lashes
- Worth the price tag
What we dislike about the product:
- Slightly sticky on application, but quickly settles on the lashes
Wonder Perfect Mascara 4D Waterproof by Clarins
One panellist had some issues with clumping, though admittedly she does have envy-inducingly long lashes. She notes that while it was on "the edge of being annoying, the lashes separated with a little help." Another editor found the opposite, saying that the Wonder Perfect Mascara 4D Waterproof by Clarins "separates the lashes nicely. No lumps in sight." It really comes down to personal preference and the state of your natural lashes.
One thing is certain though, if you want a product that truly stays in place, look no further than Clarins. "I wore this during a sweaty Body Pump class at the gym, and guess what? It still looked as fresh as when I applied it in the morning," said one panellist.
What we like about the product:
- Stays in place all day
- Buildable for an evening look, even after a day of work
What we dislike about the product:
- Slightly clumpy if you have longer lashes
High Impact Waterproof Mascara by Clinique
"This mascara isn't one for parties, but I will happily use it as my everyday casual go-to this summer to get a natural look," notes one tester, saying that it is "easy to remove as well." A fellow panellist agreed, saying that while it boasted great lift and length with a nice separation of the lashes all day long, it was not a formula for stacking and at most delivered "semi-drama" when layered on thick.
Even so, the Clinique formula still provides a more made-up look than Lumene, meaning it is perfect for those who favour an in-between result: wanting to look done-up, without the complete false-lash effect. "A great all-in-one mascara, which avoids that dry and crusty feeling," notes one panellist. "I could easily wear this all day, long until the evening – with even a cold dip in between."
What we like about the product:
- A natural result leaving you with a "your-lashes-but-better" effect
- Stay on all day long
What we dislike about the product:
- A day-time exclusive, only delivering "semi-drama" when layered on thick