Following its corpcore-themed autumn/winter '23 runway show, BOSS delivered a leisurely reset for its spring/summer '25 collection,
BOSS has always been in touch with tailoring, crafting a well-curated closet of classic suiting and on-duty dressing staples for the corporate world. But now, the brand is turning on the automated "out of office" email, looking instead to a more relaxed sartorial roll-call for its spring/summer '25 season. "We’ve stepped away from traditional double-breasted power suits, whose sharp cuts define the silhouette and are perceived as an inflexible shield around the wearer," shares Marco Falcioni, SVP of Creative Direction at HUGO BOSS.
Staged at the Palazzo del Senato in Milan, the clocked-out runway looks deconstructed a more formal dress code. Models walked the winding mirrored catwalk surrounded by lush greenery wearing reinvented suits. The "epitome" of BOSS's tailoring heritage, according to Falcioni, it has a "softer approach, where the silhouette is dictated by the wearer’s body, leaving more room for freedom and expression of individuality.”
The hero piece of the line-up is the understated three-button suit in lighter fabrics, gently wrapping the body without the constructs of shoulder pads and constrictive internal structures. This shift away from structure is a first for BOSS, and the brand is branching out beyond just soft suiting. Stepping further into the world of sportswear on the runway. Style elements and accessories veered towards the athletic, with drawstring cinching mechanisms, yoga mats, and tennis racket bags populating the looks. Off-the-clock loungewear was also prevalent, with selected pieces that drew inspiration from sleepwear, such as pyjamas and dressing gowns.
Trouser hems were cropped above the ankle across womenswear looks. The cocooning silhouettes spoke volumes, with tailoring darts added to traditional bomber jackets to create oversized sleeves. Blazers, skirts, dresses, and trenchcoats made the most of wrapped draping to bolster freedom of movement, whereas a backless, wrapped tunic dress stood out with its frontal pleating and lower-back skimming neckline. Alongside the three-button suits, the menswear featured relaxed shirting, including single-pocket styles with concealed button plackets and drawstring hems, paired with tailored trousers that fall just beyond the knee.
Luxe fabrics – ranging from wool to silk and leather – built the foundation for the collection in a relaxed range of hues, including light and navy blues, earthen browns, white, black, and even subdued variations of green, among other tones. Accessories featured a more laid-back approach, presenting pashminas and collapsed hobo bags. The shoes were another point of reinvention, featuring gently rounded toes in contrast to the solid points and squared-off shapes of earlier collections.
Considering the collection a reset, Falcioni notes that "a real BOSS is empowered and self-confident; they know when to log off and claim back their time, go out and relax, free from the hierarchy of rules and regulations.”
See all the looks from the BOSS SS25 collection below:
