The Swedish brand's autumn/winter '24 collection is a sensory experience inspired by the layers of a scent
A self-described “perfume obsessive”, By Malene Birger's creative director Maja Dixdotter approached her autumn/winter '24 collection as a seasoned nose would build a new scent. “I was in New York for a By Malene Birger event when I found a fantastic perfume I’d never seen or sampled before,” she says. “The joy of the discovery, and the appreciation for the different layers of the scent, made me think about its analogy to fashion.” There are the top notes, the standout pieces that grab one’s attention, the middle notes, seasonal must-haves and finally the base notes – the “classic foundation” of one’s wardrobe. It’s a concept that could neatly apply to most By Malene Birger collections, come to think of it.
Just as perfumes engage our sense of smell, this collection engages one particular sense: touch. The brushed cashmere sets, the sumptuous velvet the fluffy faux furs – all in a very on-brand palette of beige, winter white and chocolate – are deliciously tactile. “The process always begins with fabrics,” says Dixdotter. “I shut myself away in my summer house in Sweden with a selection of fabric swatches and started sketching looks.”
Dixdotter points out a faux fur maxi coat – quickly becoming a brand signature – as a personal favourite. This season’s iteration features an exaggerated collar and adjustable ties on the sleeves. It’s met with a body-con knitted set, decorated with small black flowers, a rare print in the By Malene Birger universe. There’s a subtle sexiness at play too, in the hint of skin between a cropped sweater and matching pencil skirt and the simple silk slip dress with blush pink lace trim.
As for that base note, it comes through by way of easy knit pants and turtlenecks designed to be layered. It’s most apparent, however, in the introduction of an oft-overlooked, vital accessory: the briefcase. "I’m happy to report that after years of throwing my laptop into any bag I had to hand before heading to the studio, I have finally designed a feminine take on a briefcase,” says Dixdotter. Still, this one comes in decadent croc-embossed leather.
See the full By Malene Birger AW24 collection below:
By Malene Birger - AW24
