Building on her collaborations with Asics and The North Face, Cecilie Bahnsen’s budding autumn/winter ‘25 collection merged technical precision with romantic frills
The fleeting moments of Cecilie Bahnsen’s autumn/winter 2025 runway show were, in and of themselves, representative of the Danish designer’s latest floral-inspired fashion. “A flower holds perfection for just a moment before it fades, transforms, and becomes something else,” Bahnsen explains of her inspiration. “That fleeting beauty, the delicacy before it disappears, is what fascinates me.”
A show is the same; ten minutes where everything comes together before it shifts again. For Bahnsen, the process that unfolds behind the scenes is her favourite part. “It’s never perfect, and that’s what makes it beautiful,” she says. “You can’t completely control it. There’s always a clash, a contrast, a moment of unexpected refinement. It’s about trusting instinct, letting things evolve, and allowing imperfections to become part of the final expression.”
Those contrasts translated into clothes that brought softness and structure into a single conversation. Harness straps, influenced by runner’s vests, wrapped around airy organza, while quilted vest-like layers anchored full skirts. A black silk dress, shaped with ribbons and bows, nodded to bustle silhouettes, creating volume at the back. Florals, normally taken as pure decoration, were recast as symbols of time and transformation. They appeared as painstakingly embroidered accents, lurking between sheerness and quilted panels, and even on the show’s backdrop print from artist Tal R’s 2021 Ordrupgaard exhibition 'Untitled Flowers'.
Throughout, Bahnsen played with the light and shadow. Pastels gave way to deeper browns and blacks, eventually shifting to a striking white finale. A subtle silver look, made from archival material, shimmered in the lineup, reflecting an interest in repurposing the past for the present. Collaborations added further dimension. The North Face pieces ( puffer jackets looped onto the body with harness straps, a new down-filled parka, and a quilted skirt) brought a modern take on utilitarian design. Bahnsen’s partnership with Asics evolved too, introducing updated GEL-Kayano 20 sneakers featuring delicate floral overlays on a distinctly athletic silhouette.
In the end, Bahnsen’s emphasis on trusting the messy, in-between phases of creation was clear in every stitch. It was a brief window that captured the beauty on the brink of change, and by the time the last model walked out, the sentiment was simple: blink, and it will all be gone.
See the full Cecilie Bahnsen AW25 collection below:
Cecilie Bahnsen – AW25
