When three visionary makeup artists join forces at Chanel, expect nothing short of a colour revolution. We meet the Cometes Collective — Valentina Li, Ammy Drammeh, and Cécile Paravina — in London as this trio of colour connoisseurs make their vibrant predictions for 2025
London may have surrendered to winter gloom, but step inside Chanel’s ‘Colour of Allure’ event and you’re greeted by a kaleidoscope of possibility. In a sleek, brutalist venue at the heart of the English capital, the brand hosted worldwide press to witness the unveiling of its latest feat: a documentary spotlighting the vibrant beauty universe of the Cometes Collective. This wunderkind trio of makeup artists — formed in 2022 — has been quietly reshaping Chanel’s approach to colour cosmetics, bringing a breath of fresh air to the House’s legendary heritage.
Composed of Valentina Li, Ammy Drammeh, and Cécile Paravina, the Cometes Collective is an international supergroup of makeup artistry chosen for their singular creativity and flair. Think of them as the Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young of colour cosmetics, if you will. “I was nervous when I first got the offer,” says Li, one of China’s top makeup artists known for her electric eye paints, over a double espresso. “I had a lot of questions about whether I was the right person.”
Nestled next to each other on a bouclé settee, the trio exude an easy camaraderie — though, as it turns out, this shared closeness took them by surprise. Makeup artistry is often a lone-wolf pursuit, so collaborative work felt unfamiliar to them at first. “I was very excited to join the Cometes Collective, but I also did not know how this would work,” says Drammeh. “We were used to working alone, so naturally it was very insightful to share about these subjects because we never got the opportunity in the past," adds Paravina. “When we work on a common project all together at the Chanel makeup creation studio it is all about this flow of ideas.” Li, who knew of Paravina’s and Drammeh’s work from social media, confides. “Given our shared passion for makeup, there was a sense of anticipation about how the trio would mesh. It felt like we had known each other for years, which I think speaks volumes about our shared love for makeup.”
The first Cometes Collective collection for Chanel launched in January 2024, marking a transition from independent makeup artistry to a deeply collaborative role within a single, wide-reaching brand. “The main difference was transitioning from being a regular artist who works on different shoots for different clients and then working mostly with one single, massive brand that has a huge and very varied audience,” says Paris-based French makeup artist Paravina, whose off-kilter style has attracted cult-favourite labels like Maison Margiela and Byredo. Reflecting on her earlier days in the industry, Paravina explains how it was “just about making one image look good”. “Now we’re providing the tools for people to glam up, to experiment and to feel good,” she says. “That’s a very new way to approach beauty, colour and texture.”
To Drammeh, Chanel’s classic veneer belies a rebellious streak. “Chanel has been daring for a long time, just think about Rouge Noir [the nail polish],” notes the Gambian-Spanish artist, who joined the Cometes Collective following 15 years of editorial experience, working with the likes of Adwoa Aboah, Debra Shaw and Harry. “Today it is such a classic colour, but when it was first released [in 1994] it really was very different and people were unsure of such a dark colour.” “Coco Chanel didn’t follow trends, she was contemporary and of the moment,” adds Paravina. “She was so sure of herself, confident,” notes Li.
Working with the House now we need to design the colours two years ahead, so there’s no point trying to predict the trends – we need to set them instead.
Valentina Li
Faithful to Mademoiselle Chanel’s forward-thinking ethos, the Cometes Collective chart their own course without waiting for the next ‘it’ trend to appear. “Working with the House now we need to design the colours two years ahead, so there’s no point trying to predict the trends – we need to set them instead,” says Li.
Building on the themes in their new documentary, which delves into Chanel’s spectrum of colour, the trio concur that 2025 will be a year bursting with chromatic experimentation. Whether subtle or striking, they believe the future of Chanel beauty belongs to those who dare to dip into the palette. “Colour, in general, just makes me happy,” says Li. “To me, using colour is like a language,” adds Paravina. “Using colour in your makeup is a surefire way to get your message across and tell people what you're all about.”
Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Though tight-lipped on specifics, the Cometes Collective can’t hide their anticipation for the curated collections debuting throughout the coming year. Paravani is focused on brightening, Drammeh is poised to interpret spring, and Li is giving new life to Chanel’s cult-favourite Les Beiges for summer. “It’ll be very outdoorsy,” she says. Next year will also mark the first time all three co-create new launches together: “We're really collaborating, really brainstorming together, creating shades together,” says Paravina.
As colour takes centre stage, they each share tips for anyone nervous about stepping out of their comfort zone. “I like transparency,” says Paravina. “Using shades that are buildable. Another favourite, if you’re willing to spend some more time on your makeup, is to use really fine brushes to create a very refined eyeliner.” Li suggests highlighting with “just a hint of something” shimmering on lids, cupid’s bow or cheeks. “Or why not try a colour mascara,” she says. “It’s a very small, easy way to start.”