Chanel - Couture AW25

In a way, Chanel has become the sartorial patron saint of opera and ballet in Paris. Over the past five years, the brand has set out to become a major supporter of the arts. Take their patronage of the dance season’s Opening Gala since 2018 or its involvement in the Ballet de l’Opéra since 2021 and the Opéra National de Paris since 2023. Hosting its Couture show in – and paying homage to – the Palais Garnier, one of Paris’ most prolific Opera Houses, can only be considered symbiotic.

The French Maison effortlessly merged classic Chanel hallmarks with a reverence for its chosen locale. Dramatic opera capes with billowing sleeves were fastened by Victorian lace collars. Tassels adorned the Chanel tweed suit, while befeathered shrugs were thrown atop a pale pink silky set. Then there were the bows. Bows, upon bows, upon bows fastened to swept-back up-dos and bound around models’ waists. Another robe fastened by a velvet bow.

Related: The 6 looks our editor-in-chief loved at Chanel's Resort '25 runway show

Nestled among the more traditional design choices was the unexpected: a floor-length crimson coat worn over a bejewelled transparent top and a latex pencil skirt. The lacquered finish, a surprising addition to Chanel’s Couture codes, is continued throughout the collection rendered in the skirt of a vanilla-coloured gown and in the ruffled sleeve of a sparkling floor-length dress – again detailed with a waist-hugging bow.

But what would an opera-set show be without tulle? Billowing two-layered tulle ballgowns with embroidered bodices walked down the runway, followed by a tutu (arguably a necessity, considering the location). Just before the Chanel bride – equal part climatic as emblematic – appeared wearing an '80s-reminiscent ballgown worthy of Christine Daaé, Danish supermodel Mona Tougaard emerged in a black dress with a ruffled trim.

In summary? Chanel’s Couture collection for autumn/winter ’25 was nothing short of operatic exuberance.