An exclusive glimpse of the awe-inspiring savoir-faire behind the scenes of Chanel's 2024/25 Métiers d'Art collection
Chanel's 2024/25 Métiers d'art collection, unveiled earlier this month in the Chinese city of Hangzhou, was nothing short of a dream. Models graced a boardwalk along Lake Xihu at nightfall, soft fog gently cloaking the surrounding waters like shimmering inkwells. The rhythmic pulse of traditional drums set the stage, before transitioning to a soundtrack of ethereal melodies.
Forming a connection between the Parisian house and this locale in China may seem tenuous, but there's a strong link found in the ever-surprising archives of Chanel herself. Throughout much of her life, the designer cherished the country's Coromandel screens. Today, there is a black-laquered Coromandel screen at Apartment Rue Cambon that once graced the 31 Rue Cambon apartment of Gabrielle Chanel, depicting a serene landspace and inlaid with luminous mother-of-pearl. It's one of 32 believed to be in her private collection and was the inspiration for the latest Métiers d’Art collection, evoking a journey the designer could have made to Hangzou – though she never made it there in her lifetime.
Of course, the purpose of the Métiers d’art shows is to pay tribute to the artisans at le19M whose vision and mastery shape the house's creations. This year's collection, however, felt particularly momentous as Lesage – an unwavering partner of Chanel since 1983 – celebrates its 100th year. The collection marks a high point for Lesage in its centenary, with the dreamlike spirit of the Coromandel boards brought to life in embroideries and tweeds – recalling the rich hues of the Chinese screens and the reflections of their glossy lacquer. Lesage's work also includes exceptional boots inspired by a pair that belonged to the couturière herself, designed in collaboration with the shoemaker Massaro - also one of le19M's resident Maisons d’art.
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Photo: Donata Wenders
Photo: Donata Wenders
Braided embroidery of flowers in phosphorescent thread, hand-painted for a delicate shadowed effect, enhanced the collection – courtesy of the Montex atelier founded in Paris in 1949. Lemarié, known for its feather artistry and floral embellishments, brought poetic elegance to pastel jackets adorned with feather boas. A jade-green silk jacket, pleated and quilted in a diamond pattern, was paired with tulle and marabou accents, while a light blue velvet design featured embossed and appliquéd flowers. Lemarié’s collaboration with Lognon added dimension: an off-white satin jacket was pleated with meticulous variations in width, resulting in a sculptural, quilted effect further enriched with intricate smocking and beading.
Chanel’s historic milliner Maison Michel brought understated sophistication to the collection with felt and leather hats. Designed with narrow brims, these hats completed traveler-inspired ensembles, such as belted tweed jackets and pleated skirts. Its restrained elegance served as a counterpoint to the more opulent pieces, demonstrating the collection’s range and versatility. Meanwhile, Goossens, Chanel’s goldsmith since 1950, drew from archival treasures to reinterpret a heart-shaped jewel linked to Gabrielle Chanel. Using gilded metal and the delicate texture of a waterlily leaf – an homage to a table designed for her Paris apartment—the atelier created jewellery that felt organic yet refined. With bronze, rock crystal, and glass paste, Goossens added layers of depth and history to the collection.
Photo: Donata Wenders
Each atelier at le19M played a crucial role in shaping the collection’s narrative. Lesage’s century-spanning expertise, Montex’s daring innovations, Lemarié’s delicate embellishments, Goossens’ intricate jewellery, Maison Michel’s millinery finesse, and Massaro’s shoemaking artistry came together in a seamless celebration of skill and imagination. The show’s finale highlighted this synergy with a dress combining sunburst and ‘au bonheur des dames’ pleats. Lemarié’s additions – lace inlays, golden beads, and shimmering lurex threads – formed oversized camellias that seemed to bloom with every step. This layering of techniques transformed the dress into an emblem of the collection’s spirit.
Below, explore the photography of Donata Wenders – exclusive to Vogue Scandinavia – offering an intimate glimpse into the artistry behind the scenes, spotlighting the hands that transform raw materials into masterpieces. To quote house ambassador Tilda Swinton who sat front row to discover the Métiers d'art collection, "I think Gabrielle Chanel would be very proud of this show."
