CPHFW announces AW25 line-up: These are our key takeaways

Widely considered the fifth edition to the world's 'big four' fashion weeks, Copenhagen Fashion Week will be the focus of the industry once again come late January 2025. The upcoming autumn/winter '25 season sees CPHFW continuing to go "from strength to strength", in the words of CEO Cecilie Thorsmark, and the announcement of the 36 participating brands today only solidifies the sentiment.

With reputable Nordic names side-by-side with international vanguards, and a continued mix of runway shows and brand presentations, it will be a significant season. “I am very excited to announce a brand lineup that both represents some of the biggest Nordic leaders in fashion as well as some of our most iconic names returning to the schedule," Thorsmark says, no doubt referencing some of the major returning names like Rotate, Saks Potts, Marimekko and Henrik Vibskov. "It is through the continued dedication of our brand community and wider network that we are able to grow and pave the way for a more positive
future in fashion," she goes on.

Related: Brand-to-watch Bonnetje joins NewTalent scheme for AW25

The lineup encompasses 36 brands, all of which have been approved by the official show and presentation committee. These brands are also part of CPHFW's pilot of the revised Sustainability Requirements framework, giving them the opportunity to test and implement required actions before they come into effect during 2025.

Read on to discover our five key takeaways from the CPHFW AW25 lineup and the full list of participating designers and brands.

Swedish brand Filippa K, now with Anna Teurnell at the helm, is experiencing something of a rebirth – including a long-awaited return to the runway. The brand's hiatus since the autumn/winter '18 edition of Stockholm Fashion Week will come to a close in January as the brand joins Swedish peers Deadwood and CMMN SWDN in Copenhagen.

If you were to look back through the archives, the last time that a collection by esteemed Danish designer Ann Sofie Madsen appeared at Copenhagen Fashion Week was for autumn/winter '23. An alum of the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts who worked under the likes of John Galliano and Alexander McQueen, the return of the avant-garde designer to the schedule brings serious gravitas.

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Vogue Scandinavia has previously documented 66° North's dynamic trajectory from dressing Icelandic fishermen to becoming a fashion week favourite. Now, the Reykjavík-based outdoor apparel powerhouse strengthens its sartorial positioning even further with a slot on the CPHFW schedule that is not to be missed.

Following the buzz of Stine Goya's dedicated capsule for Emily In Paris, from which Lily Collins' titular character wore a statement printed puffer vest, the Danish brand is delighting fans with a return to CPHFW. After taking a step away for SS25, Stine Goya will pivot into a presentation format – and we hear there are big things planned.

Although Ganni remains an active presence at the CPHFW platform with its NewTalent patronage, the Danish favourite is clearly continuing its new chapter in fields yonder to Copenhagen with a third absence from its hometown's line-up. At this stage, all signs point back to Paris for Ditte Reffstrup and her design team.