As imaginative and thought-provoking as ever, award-winning Danish designer Henrik Vibskov showcases his SS25 collection – first presented in Milan – on a larger scale in Copenhagen
In Henrik Vibskov's world, there are no boundaries. While the designer remains a loyal fixture at his hometown’s Copenhagen Fashion Week, his eponymous brand occasionally ventures to the schedules of Paris and Milan too – the latter being where this very spring/summer ‘25 collection, ‘The Orchestra of the Soft Assistance’ debuted in June. Two months on, the designer promised the MIlanese presentation would be enlarged three times and incorporate a second drop – all of which was delivered at Copenhagen's Den Grå hal today.
The SS25 message remains loud and clear, being an exploration of the empathy (or the lack thereof) across the human and animal kingdoms. Hands remain a motif across the collection – amongst ‘hands’, legs and even tentacles of other species– all of which directly translated in the draping, fluidity, prints and amorphous silhouettes. “We have to be better as humans to assist each other, and hands are a big part of that,” Vibskov said down the phone ahead of the show. “You help with your hands, you shake hands, you welcome with your hands,” he explains. “It’s also interesting when you can’t use your hands,” he says, going on to share an anecdote of recently receiving an important phone call while his hands were covered in blue cheese.
Compared to previous seasons, with their flashes of neon, canned tomato motifs and boxing paraphernalia, it’s a toned-down affair that Vibskov puts down to an intuitive perspective of the world condition. “Everything is a little bit more calmed down, colour-wise,” he says. “Many of the tones are earthy. Because, to me, given the state of our minds, the state of the world, it doesn’t feel like the time to walk around in a super bold pink.” The harmonious additions to the collection for Copenhagen are womenswear-focused, while the textiles are largely recycled or organic certified fibres – an aspect that Vibskov is increasing each season.
While other designers are solely focused on pulling off their SS25 show this week, it’s just one of many projects being juggled by Vibskov – alongside the design and construction of a music festival set in the woods, a major shoot for the brand, and an event for his very own ‘Practical Intelligent Genius’ foundation. There’s no boundaries to what Vibskov may do next.
See the full Henrik Vibskov SS25 collection below.
