Martin Asbjørn carries the sartorial torch in Copenhagen, curating an impossibly covetable closet for the workplace vixen. One thing's for certain: we're already mourning there's a whole year to wait before it is here
Martin Asbjørn’s spring/summer 2025 collection for Remain could only be described as a delicious palette cleanser this Copenhagen Fashion Week. With all of the creative chops presented by a blank piece of paper, the brand’s trademark leather and tailoring took a sheer spin set against a no-nonsense background of white drapery and a narrow runway. “I wanted people to be up close with the pieces, more intimate,” Asbjørn explains.
1990s minimalism was a clear theme throughout, seen in the see-through slip skirts and sleek silhouettes, not to mention in the straight cut of a butter yellow jacket and the shrunken lapels of a heather grey blazer dress. Speaking of the shrunken lapel, Asbjørn’s mastery of proportions also played a key role in the collection, with capri trousers cropped just-so to highlight the wide shoulders of a blouse and a vertigo-inducing V-neckline lending flattering depth to a maxi dress.
There’s something undeniably sultry in Asbjørn’s take on the classic Remain woman. She’s a workplace vixen; her maxi skirts feature slits almost high enough to be scandalous, and she wears her fine knit turtlenecks sans bra. But there’s also a distinctly demure aspect to her, hinted at in the high necklines and longer hemlines. Simply put, she’s a woman of contrast, both literally – dressed in a leather top layered over an organza shirt and a matching skirt – and figuratively.
Beyond the flattering fit and the tactile textures of Asbjørn’s collection – accented with silver pieces by jewellery brand Agmes – there’s the indelible display of curated colours. The flood of soft greys and muted beiges lay the foundation for the pieces that truly pop: an undeniably covetable coat in poppy red, the cross-over collar particularly perfect for the chill of an early autumn morning, and a long-line leather bomber in an eye-catching emerald green.
To summarise, Asbjørn goes from strength to strength at the helm of Remain, presenting a wardrobe we’d argue most women would want – uncompromising and sophisticated without sacrificing comfort or versatility.
See all the looks from Remain's SS25 collection below: