For the brand’s spring/summer ‘25 collection 'Lavatanssit' , Rolf Ekroth taps into its signature nostalgia, infused with a humorous and distinctly Finnish twist
If Rolf Ekroth’s autumn/winter ‘24 collection was, in the designer’s own words, “the most Finnish collection I’ve done so far,” the brand’s spring/summer ‘25 showcase delves even deeper into his heritage. Inspired by ‘lavatanssit’ – an old-school open-air or barn dance event that lacks a direct English translation but was the place to be in Finland back in the day, akin to today’s bars and nightclubs – the latest line-up taps into an integral part of Finnish culture.
“I was watching The Sound of Music with my girlfriend, and there’s the song ‘My Favourite Things’, which I’ve always loved, and I thought, what if we did a collection of my favourite things, Finland edition, but a little bit f**ked up,” Ekroth laughs. “And it pretty quickly went to lavatanssit.”
Instead of trivialising this tradition – which stretches back to the 19th century and is still carried on in some parts of Finland – the label has taken a tongue-in-cheek approach, infused with a hint of the dark humour Finns are known for (cue the bags fashioned from life rings, a nod to how dance-goers would head to the events on boats, with the occasional mishap occurring). While Ekroth says the actual clothing references from the dances “weren’t the most interesting,” he was captivated by the colours – earthy, warm and muted – natural materials like cotton, wool, and linen, as well as prints from bygone eras, all presented in the SS25 collection with a contemporary spin. Ekroth also purchased a host of Finnish picture books from different decades, further informing his design process.
“What caught my eye were the sporting and swimming references,” he notes. Take, for instance, the dandelion-printed (hand-painted by Ekroth’s girlfriend Matilda) men’s onesie swimsuit from the 30s, or the motocross influences, an homage to Finland’s rich racing history, as “the fastest country in the world,” as Ekroth puts it. A mix of the brand’s signature oversized silhouettes mingle with more fitted looks, creating balance, while approximately 90 per cent of the line-up has been crafted from deadstock, recycled, or organic materials. This season, Rolf Ekroth has also secured covetable collaborations with Puma, Happy Socks, Kalevala (note the recycled silver jewellery adorning some pieces), and Finnish knitting company Novita. Like last season, all knitting patterns from this collection will become available come spring.
As models strut down the runway to the sound of nostalgic Finnish bangers blaring from the speakers in Poolen, a warehouse-cum-rave-joint, their faces have been kissed by the sun that never sets. Some have tears running down their cheeks, gutted that they didn't find love at the dance (it’s where many Finns’ grandparents and their parents would’ve met). Tears could also be shed over this being the brand’s last collection under the CPHFW Newtalent program. Yet, Ekroth remains immensely motivated for the future, as evidenced by the SS25 offering, which builds an even more solid design DNA for the label. “I’m feeling more in tune with myself and doing exactly what I want,” he says.
Discover all the looks from the Rolf Ekroth SS25 show below:
