The Icelandic brand's spring/summer '25 collection was a poetic exploration manifesting in fluid forms
“I always start my collections with words,” says Sól Hansdóttir. This season, the Icelandic designer found herself captivated by words in their most beautiful form, with her eponymous brand’s spring/summer ’25 line-up drawing inspiration from Ásta Fanney’s evocative poem River & Sugardusk. “I noticed a surrealist, punk, ritualistic fantasy in Ásta’s poetry that resonated with the clothes I make,” Hansdóttir explains. “It felt as though her text was a translation of my work, and my task was to translate this back into a collection.”
Entitled ‘Simulation Swan,’ the label unveiled its SS25 collection in an immersive two-hour performance at Blox, perched on Copenhagen harbour. With Fanney herself present at the showcase, the poet guided 14 models through a dynamic choreography devised by John William Watson, creating a mesmerising fusion of fashion and performance art.
Much like Fanney’s poem, which offers a vivid and dreamlike reflection on the passage of time and the essence of life through the journey of a river, Sól Hansdóttir’s SS25 collection evokes a sense of movement and fluidity. Majestic swans and documentations of the transformative power of rivers, sculpting and reshaping landscapes, dominated Hansdóttir’s mood board this season, evident in the earthy hues and splashes of deep blues. Alongside the structured silhouettes the brand is known for, there are more flowing and organic shapes, like the voluminous skirts – a first for the label. “If you’d asked me last season if I was going to do my take on a puffball skirt I’d have laughed,” Hansdóttir says.
Sustainability is a core principle for Hansdóttir, and the spring/summer offering is no exception. Like all of the brand's pieces, it is crafted entirely from deadstock materials, with the exception of organic Organdy cotton and bamboo jersey. For Hansdóttir, this line-up marks a slight departure from the norm. “I feel like this collection is about translating deeper meanings in our making processes into something more accessible and urgent for my audience,” she reflects.
Discover all the looks from the Sól Hansdóttir SS25 collection below:
Photo credit: Raluca Margescu