For spring/summer 2025, Stamm sent out a message of positivity by way defiantly punky, oversized fits and a flock of live carrier pigeons
Don’t let the Ts rhinestoned with the word “guilty” fool you, for spring/summer 2025, Stamm designer Elisabet Stamm aims to send out a positive message, literally. Her show, which took place on a basketball court atop the massive CIFF trade show, opened with a flock of carrier pigeons, released by a gaggle of children, including the designer’s son. “I don’t want it to be too corny, like this is the exact message,” says Stamm. “We just send up something positive. So they take off from the roof and they are trained to fly back to where they live.” The collection is fittingly dubbed 'Best Wishes'.
Positivity pigeons aside, there is something defiantly optimistic in Stamm’s youthful, punky expression, which this time leaned into an anime playfulness (models wore bleach blonde spike wigs and otherworldly blue contacts) . “It’s a little bit like, ‘Bless you’, but also a little bit like, ‘F*** you’,” she says. This time around, her signature oversized silhouettes — slouchy denim and slouchy boots, oversized track jackets and big cozy rugby shirts — tempered with slim, figure- hugging pieces (most notably, for the first time, understated tencel wool that draped down the body). For Stamm, it’s all about duality – ying and yang (ying yangs were stitched onto the clothes themselves), positive and negative, dark and light. “Sometimes there is no right and wrong,” she says. Even the candy pink feels simultaneously sweet and like a middle finger.
While a Stamm show is very much vibes, there’s also craft at play, not only in the exaggerated shapes but also in the material. Following last season’s show, Stamm spent a week in Paris “completely exhausted”, hunting for fabrics. “I needed to go back to that crafting place,” she says. The result is waxy, recycled nylon outwear with a memory quality (“When you touch it, it leaves a mark”) and stiff, ultra-functional recycled twill workwear.
It wouldn’t be a Stamm show without a deeply personal touch. Yes, there are the relaxed denim trousers, treated and mark with oil stains to resemble the very jeans her father, a truck driver, wears. But there’s also a brand new Stamm logo. It’s her father’s signature. “Now I get a bit emotional,” says Stamm. “But I had to have a loan from him.” The loan from her father, who doesn’t know a thing about the fashion industry, was used to cover a cash flow lag this season. Without it, Stamm wouldn’t have been able to secure a vital fabric order. “I promised myself when I was 18 that I wouldn’t ask him anything again, but I had to,” she says. “The signature – it’s actually from the loan document.”
See all the looks from Stamm's SS25 collection below.
