The CPHFW ‘One to Watch’ brand championed craftsmanship in its spring/summer 2025 collection while debuting a novel, innovative weaving technique
What laid the foundation for Copenhagen-based brand Stem’s spring/summer 2025 collection? A mistake. But it was a serendipitous one. It allowed founder Sarah Brunnhuber to develop her unique weaving and fabric-shaping technique, which she harnesses in Stem’s latest line-up, named ‘Edition 3: The Pulling Collection,’ after the innovative method she spent the past two years perfecting.
“The technique came about because fabrics would arrive from the mill pulled and stretched in different directions, causing the loose weave areas to gather and create a smocked and pleated effect,” Brunnhuber explains. “I always found this ‘mistake’ beautiful, and during one of my weaving residencies at the Danish Art Workshops, I started making handwoven samples utilising these loosely woven areas in a more considered way.”
Showcasing its six-piece SS25 collection (each arriving in two colourways) via a two-hour presentation at an eclectic inner-city art store, the display saw the Stem team pulling and knotting live throughout the spectacle. Meanwhile, models meandered through the space, interacting with installations highlighting the collection’s artfully draped fabrics and looks. In the SS25 line-up, Brunnhuber’s pulling technique takes centre stage, weaving texture, volume, and shape into each piece. Neutral tones, punctuated with pops of fiery scarlet and baby blue, permeate the collection. Standouts include the striped ‘Pulling Smock,’ a unisex piece that can be worn as an oversized shirt or shaped to the wearer’s desire by pulling different parts of the garment, and the fringed jackets and textured ruffled skirts that exemplify the meticulous craftsmanship defining the label.
“It feels important, whilst at the same time rebellious, to be creating a new handcraft at a time when crafts are dying out – we live in a time where speed and convenience are prioritised over the development of artisanal techniques,” says Brunnhuber. The spring/summer offering not only celebrates handcraft but also champions sustainability, a vital aspect of all Stem’s operations. Each piece is zero-waste and made using only certified natural or recycled fibres. “In order for me to justify creating anything new, I need a really good reason to do it,” Brunnhuber says. “An exploration for a new weaving technique and a new handcraft feels like a good enough reason to create a piece of clothing.”
Discover all the looks from the Stem SS25 collection below:
