With ballet as its muse and minimalism at its core, COS’ autumn/winter ‘24 collection captivates with fluidity, strong silhouettes, and a refined palette
The seafaring season continued at New York Fashion Week (after Tommy Hilfiger's ferry takeover) with COS’ Brooklyn Navy Yard show. Well-dressed show-goers arrived at the industrial venue via boat wearing some sought-after looks from the London-based brand’s autumn/winter ‘24 collection - the same collection showcased on the runway. “We feel our aesthetics suit this city,” says COS’ Design Director Karin Gustafsson.
A star-studded group gathered on the benches in the industrial venue, with the likes of Emma Roberts, Emily Ratajkowski, and Chloë Sevigny in the crowd. Notable Nordic tastemakers were also in attendance; Danish Emili Sindlev sported layered shirts and wide-cut jeans, while Swedish Hannah Schönberg opted for a top autumn trend with a burgundy outfit cinched by a matching leather belt (undoubtedly a key accessory for COS this season). Elsewhere, Nootka-founder Lisa Olsson looked impeccable in taupe tailoring.
But despite the high profile guest list, COS' autumn/winter ‘24 collection still stole the show. Weaving between thick pillars, models dressed in rich neutrals, tactile textures and sought-after silhouettes set the tone for the season ahead. “Our focus is always on timelessness and styles that last season after season,” shares Gustafsson. The Design Director highlights that the brand always works with “strong” silhouettes. “The look is sort of effortless. Even though we have investment pieces or stronger pieces, we like that there is a mix.”
This season, Gustafsson found her inspiration in ballet and movement “We looked at German dancer and choreographer Pina Bausch. She was so expressive in her choreographies.” The resulting collection saw “soft fluidity meeting structure,” as Gustafsson puts it. Sweeping silks dresses, cocooning coats, and buttery leather jackets were styled with loafers, pointed kitten heels or ballet flats, complemented by quilted clutch bags.
Shifting between shades of dove grey and anthracite, to stark black, navy, beige and beyond, pops of pea green punctuated at foot level. Working with such a muted palette, the materials and textures got to take centre stage. The materials dictate how Gustafsson and her team approach the drape and silhouettes of the garments. It is an approach that has “really elevated the core products,” according to Gustafsson. “We have more of a sculptural feel to our silhouettes because of this. It is our take on minimalism.”
See all the looks from COS' AW24 collection below:
