At Deadwood’s autumn/winter ‘25 show, models took the plunge, transforming into nereids with translucent skin and white lashes. The real treasure trove, however, surfaced in the shells, waves, and even frozen tips of the hair looks
Models took the plunge – quite literally – at Deadwood’s autumn/winter ‘25 show. On the rain-slicked rooftop of Villa Copenhagen, models appeared like deep-sea creatures emerging from forgotten waters. Literally. After all, the Swedish brand’s runway was a see-through walkway along the bottom of the hotel’s pool, with models strutting knee-deep in splashing water.
Deadwood’s deep-sea vision materialised in luminous, otherworldly makeup paired with hair that referenced everything from dark marine caverns to swashbuckling ship decks. Translucent skin and white lashes channelled deep-sea creatures shrouded in darkness, offset by swipes of sea green liner and kelp-hued eyeshadow. That said, the hair was the real anchor for the collection’s oceanic theme: seashells nestled into natural curls, sleek strands moulded into seaweed-like waves, and even frozen-inspired looks gave an uncanny chill.
“We drew inspiration from sea monsters and anything that thrives in those cold, hidden pockets of the ocean,” explains Kevin Murphy’s global session master, Massimo Morello. “One style mimicked shiny seaweed, another resembled hair frozen by sub-zero currents. We also wove in pirate-inspired braids because pirates belong to the ocean, along with wet-look elements that clung to foreheads and chins, like a restless tide.”
Photo: Bryndis Thorsteinsdottir
Photo: Bryndis Thorsteinsdottir
Photo: Bryndis Thorsteinsdottir
Minimal tools and plenty of textural finesse kept these aquatic silhouettes feeling organic. “For the seaweed-like waves, we used sea salt spray for grip, then hairspray before bending the hair with straighteners,” says Morello. Some curls, however, called for a more unorthodox approach: tiny weighted rings replaced standard styling products, lending extra density and definition without losing that sea-worn ease.
In harmony with the collection’s flowy, sometimes voluminous garments, hair was tucked behind collars or pinned into glossy updos when needed. “Busy prints or layered shapes benefited from a sleek crown and dry ends,” Morello notes. “And we paired waves with eye-catching hair colours to amplify the effect.”
By the time the final siren slipped backstage, Deadwood had conjured a mercurial and mesmerising underwater reverie. Maritime myth met modern design, and each model seemed to surface from her own fathomless realm – eerie aquatic beauty intact.