In conversation with Ditte Reffstrup: Reflections on Ganni's Parisian runway debut

For spring/summer '25, Ganni held its first fashion show in Paris. At first glance, it became clear that Ditte and Nicolaj Reffstrup wanted to express their love for the City of Light: “When we learned we would be having a show in Paris, it was obvious that we wanted to bring something very Parisian. We discussed the most iconic locations, and while there are many, one that stood out for us was the Pont des Arts, known for its padlocks (which have now been removed), and we incorporated that element into our accessories.”

The goal wasn’t to copy and paste the French wardrobe. On the contrary, Ganni put a twist on its iconic pieces that have cemented the label's ultra-cool brand status. The Peter Pan collar took on a playful edge, and ballet flats were reimagined in shiny or lace-up styles. These pieces that have contributed to the success of the Scandinavian brand got a new look in Ganni’s first Paris fashion show. Ditte Reffstrup sat down with Vogue to share the secrets behind this historic collection for the Danish label.

Related: After a two-season rest, Scandi darling Ganni is moving to Paris

What was the starting point for this fashion show in Paris?
Ditte Reffstrup: "So much has happened… We took a break since our last show in Copenhagen, but it wasn't that much of a break because we’ve been supporting and collaborating with talents in a different way. While we’re still a small brand in some major markets, we’re gradually starting to expand globally. Paris felt like a natural goal, the highest one that we could strive for. We’re also in the process of setting up our headquarters here in Paris. We have new stylists on our team who have been with us for the past two or three seasons. They come from prestigious fashion houses, and you can really see that influence."

What inspiration did you have on your mood board for this collection?
"We had a specific image of the witch! We discussed how to convey Ganni’s story in Paris. Today, we are eager to make progress with our sustainability program. We want to share our story about working with future fabrics. So, we thought of witches, not as the stereotypical figure with a pointed hat, but rather as a concept of community, representing women who work with nature, nurture it, and respect it."

Can you tell us about the sneakers presented in this show?
"Our expansion has enabled us to collaborate with even more innovative teams and work with future materials! For instance, we partnered with Simplifyber, an American company, to create the sneakers. Typically, the production of sneakers generates a significant amount of waste. However, this product is made from collected waste that is transformed into a new fiber. We can proudly say that it is a carbon-neutral shoe."

How about the oversized bag?
"It's an oversized version of the Bou bag! We wanted to demonstrate that in Copenhagen, we carry our whole lives in our bags. We always pack an extra pair of shoes if we’re going out dancing, or we'll take sneakers for biking."

What was the first thing you did when you arrived in Paris?
"This time, it felt special. We’ve always promised our kids that we would take them to Disneyland at least once, and this was the perfect opportunity. What makes Paris so beautiful is strolling through the streets, people watching, soaking up the atmosphere and the beauty. It's so different from Denmark in many ways – the energy and the overall atmosphere."

Who is the French woman you would most like to have dinner with?
"I am very impressed by a French author, Valérie Perrin. I would have loved for her to attend the fashion show. She’s fantastic, and I love her style of storytelling."

Your French dream?
"I don't know, a fashion show in Paris? Or maybe contributing to a more sustainable agenda."

Related: The coven of Ganni girls cast a magic spell on Paris for SS25

In your opinion, what is the strongest look from this collection?
"It's hard to choose. But I particularly love the silhouettes where we (re)introduce our Peter Pan collar! Vanessa Reid, who styled this collection, suggested that we do so, to breathe new life into it. It’s so Ganni. I also appreciate the contrast in the silhouettes of this collection and the variety of materials used. We worked on sculptural silhouettes and dresses with Nicklas Skovgaard, who consulted on some of the looks in this collection, as well as Claire Sullivan."

What are the innovative highlights of this collection in terms of sustainability?
"A dress made from Oleatex looks like leather, but it isn't. It’s actually an alternative to leather made from olive oil waste. We can also mention Circulose®, Cycora®, Pélinova®, and Celium, which is an innovative material produced through a bacterial fermentation process."

What challenges does a brand face when it produces hit pieces? How do you keep reinventing?
"Our buckle ballet flat embodies the essence of Ganni. When you think of a ballet flat, you usually think of something very cute and feminine, but we designed it with a more contemporary idea in mind, featuring sharp, edgy buckles. This creates a new balance, and they are very comfortable to wear. It’s about building on this foundation. Sales might fluctuate, but we hope we’ve created a classic—an iconic piece that may become a permanent part of our collections for years to come."

What are your future goals?
"One of our top priorities is the development of future fabrics. Next year, we are committed to having 10% of our main collections made from these innovative materials. The goal is to adapt these innovative solutions so that they become a commercial part of our collections, because that’s how we make an impact, right? From both a design and sustainability perspective, this will be a key focus."

Translated by Natasha Hersman