Ganni to sit out CPHFW's AW24 show schedule, a first look at the 31 brands confirmed

Since its beginnings, Copenhagen Fashion Week has always been a proverbial incubator for emerging design talents – a role that it will lean into further for the upcoming autumn/winter '24 program taking place from January 29th to February 2nd, 2024. Announced today, the highly-anticipated schedule will increase its spotlight on new designers with a host of exciting new names, and a return of its NewTalent program.

In a surprising turn, Ganni – usually the brand to close proceedings with a bang – will take a pause from showing this season, instead redirecting its efforts towards a partnership position for NewTalent. "“We are excited for this season, and the opportunity to continue to nurture emerging talent," says Ganni's CEO Andrea Baldo. "Supporting the talent incubator of Copenhagen Fashion Week feels like a natural next step for us. Taking a season off the show schedule also allows us to reconsider the vision for our shows and prioritise local key brand projects across Asia and the US, while we look forward to show seasons to come."

"Of course, the Ganni show will be dearly missed this season," CPHFW's CEO Cecilie Thorsmark chimes in, "but they will continue their presence in various activations for the February edition, not least with an exciting project planned with CPHFW NewTalent. We very much look forward to continuing our close collaboration with them in seasons to come.

Related: The 4 young brands tapped for CPHFW's AW24 NewTalent roster

Without its usual headlining act, AW24 will still be a season to watch, with Scandinavian favourites Rotate, Stine Goya, Marimekko and Helmstedt in the mix. As always, the 31 brands showing have been approved by CPHFW's unique screening process – with a show committee and sustainability committee ensuring that all involved meet the program's 18 Minimum Standards, considering both fashion design criteria and a full value chain perspective.

For the upcoming season, NewTalent bursary recipient Nicklas Skovgaard will present as the official opening show on the Monday, building on the impact of the brand's first showcase in August, while the subsequent days will offer a burgeoning schedule of presentations, events, showrooms and trade fairs.

“The global reach that Copenhagen Fashion Week continues to garner is testament to the role a fashion week must play in expecting positive change from international and Nordic leaders in the fashion industry," Thorsmark comments. "By implementing Copenhagen Fashion Week as a key cultural activation we are proposing new definitions of what a fashion week can symbolise, with our continued growth only underlining this."

For AW24, CPHFW's NewTalent will include four brands: continuing from last season are Rolf Ekroth and Nicklas Skovgaard, with Alectra Rothschild/Masculina and Stamm joining the scheme. For this coming edition, there will be three brands awarded the One To Watch recognition slot: Martin Quad, Sloth Rousing and MLGA. These brands will present their forthcoming collections through a variety of formats that they feel best encompasses their vision, from installations, presentations, events and showroom formats.

See the full AW24 line up below: