The Danish label honed in on its apocalyptic storytelling for autumn/winter '25, serving up a raw and rugged collection with a glimmer of hope
Last season, Fine Chaos earned its stripes in powerful storytelling – a narrative that the Danish brand is fostering further for autumn/winter ‘25. “It’s sort of like a butterfly’s journey through hell, where hope is found in the darkest corners you could imagine – that’s what I hope we achieve,” creative director Marc C. Møllerskov said ahead of the runway show, staged in Refshaleøen. The label had transformed the locale into a low-lit ‘arena’ where guests gathered around Danish electro-pop music group Kind mod Kind, whose infectious beats – ranging from ballad to mellow techno – set an otherworldly mood.
Entitled ‘Ataraxis’ (translating to ‘Peace of Mind’), the AW25 collection nods to ancient Greece, where, as explained by Møllerskov, “soldiers used to go into an ‘Ataraxia’ before going to war, coming to peace with everything going on and losing the fear of death before potentially running into it.” This season, Fine Chaos builds on the apocalyptic storyline that encompassed the SS25 line-up, with the ‘Ataraxis’ here symbolising an arc where “people have to come to peace with a world that is ruined, controlled by corrupt powers, and they have found hope within that.”
It might sound sombre, but Fine Chaos isn’t one to shy away from drawing raw – and sometimes daunting – influences from the current societal landscape. There are no rose-tinted glasses here.
For AW25, Møllerskov set out to design silhouettes that oscillate between “a big hug and being or feeling strangled.” Cue form-clinging corsetry, second-skin dresses and a stiff, transparent PVC raincoat, which were offset by generous hoodies, cocooning knits and relaxed jackets. The distressed and rugged aesthetic seeps into this season as well, materialising in ripped, washed denim and sliced shirts. Møllerskov cites a key inspiration pinned on his moodboard – snaps of looks worn by guests attending Fine Chaos’ shows – saying, “As we serve to be a platform for the youth, the dialogues, outfits, expressions are so political, and I f**king love it.”
Though a dark palette dominates the AW25 line-up, splashes of vibrant blue, yellow and orange, which Møllerskov describes as “sarcastic, almost”, could also be interpreted as that glimmer of hope in the butterfly’s journey.
See all the looks from Fine Chaos' autumn/winter '25 collection below:
