Ganni may be missing from the show schedule at Copenhagen Fashion Week this season, but the Danish brand continues to maintain a powerful presence through its patronage of emerging Nordic Talent. Get to know the four “fearless” new designers to have earned the NewTalent spotlight
Ganni has once again solidified its commitment to elevating emerging talent in the Nordic fashion scene through its continued patronage of Copenhagen Fashion Week’s NewTalent program. For the third consecutive season, the brand is providing both financial support and a platform for rising designers to showcase their work and vision, reinforcing its dedication to the next generation of creatives.
The NewTalent program, a key part of CPHFW celebrates young, innovative designers, giving them the resources and exposure they need to make an impact in the industry. By supporting this initiative, Ganni – after stretching its legs internationally to debut at Paris Fashion Week last year – is helping to set the stage for the future of Scandinavian fashion. For Ditte Reffstrup, Ganni's creative director, the next generation of talent is what excites her most about the future of fashion. “There's a wave of young creative talent emerging right now – people who are truly fearless and I really admire that,” Reffstrup says. “To me, it’s exciting when you see talent that are able to challenge the norms and existing ways of operating as a business.”
“Community and collaboration have always been vital tenets of the Nordic fashion industry,” chimes in Cecilie Thorsmark, CEO of CPHFW. “What excites me the most is the innovation, resilience, and determinism of brands that we’ve seen these last few years. I’m excited for the creativity to flourish into new resource-efficient business models.”
This ethos of collaboration and sustainability is echoed by Reffstrup. For her, the future of fashion is rooted in authenticity, creativity, and responsibility. “The new generation of talent is fearless,” she says, praising the up-and-coming designers. “It’s exciting to see talent that is able to challenge the existing ways of operating as a business.”
Of course, you can't talk about the future of fashion without a hyper-focus on sustainability. Thorsmark hopes for greater industry alignment in 2025, with brands and organisations collaborating to accelerate sustainability efforts. “Sustainability needs to remain a top priority, with leadership being highly involved in keeping up with action plans and progress,” she says. Reffstrup echoes the sentiment, calling for the industry to fully embrace sustainable practices – not just as a buzzword, but as a tangible, ongoing commitment. “There’s so much exciting work happening around recycling, upcycling, and fabric innovation,” she notes, particularly in leather alternatives, but acknowledges that there’s much more to be done.
Through initiatives like NewTalent Ganni continues to lead the charge in championing authenticity, sustainability, and collaboration – values that will shape the future of Scandinavian fashion. As Reffstrup puts it, “Copenhagen is integral to GANNI; it’s where my heart is.” The city, and the fashion community within it, remains a cornerstone of inspiration, proving that when creativity and community come together, magic happens.
Below, discover exclusive portraits of the four designers on the NewTalent roster this season.
Frederik Berner Kühl, Creative Director of Berner Kühl
Copenhagen-based menswear brand Berner Kühl, founded in 2019 by Frederik Berner Kühl, is driven by a desire to educate consumers on the value of enduring craftsmanship. Drawing inspiration from utility, nature and serenity, the brand creates understated yet emotionally resonant collections that aim to become an essential part of the modern wardrobe. Berner Kühl’s commitment to slow, intentional creation fosters a deeper connection to the pieces we wear, ensuring sustainability is not a choice but an inherent part of every design.
Describe your design aesthetic in three words.
Refined, subversive, functional
What change would you like to see in the fashion industry in 2025?
Less noise, more substance. Real things.
When it comes to the future of fashion, what excites you the most?
Young people.
What do you think is the key to defining a strong creative vision?
Spend a lot of time researching, define what you like—then stick to what you like.
How do community and collaboration shape the growth of the Scandinavian fashion scene?
We are small fish in a big sea. If a lot of small fish school together, it becomes a big swarm.
Alectra Rothschild, Creative Director of Alectra Rothschild/Masculina
Alectra Rothschild of Alectra Rothschild/Masculina.
Making waves with subversive collections celebrating queer and counterculture, Copenhagen-based designer Alectra Rothschild has built clothing brand Masculina on the notions of expression and high-glamour. Her body-conscious clothes either hug or control the body for a dramatic, undressed, and slightly chaotic aesthetic. A trained tailor with an MA in Fashion from Central Saint Martins, Alectra has honed her craft at prestigious houses like Mugler and Alexander McQueen. Working towards zero waste, the majority of garments are upcycled or deadstock.
Describe your design aesthetic in three words.
Slut, but with lovely shoes.
What change would you like to see in the fashion industry in 2025?
More money for independent smaller brands.
When it comes to the future of fashion, what excites you the most?
I think it's not looking that great right now to be honest.
What do you think is the key to defining a strong creative vision?
Focus on what you do well and develop it – don't focus on trends at all. Speak from where you stand. Find people who believe in your vision. You need this support.
How do community and collaboration shape the growth of the Scandinavian fashion scene?
For me, it's a vital part of what I do. Without collaboration and community, Masculina wouldn't exist at all.
Anna Myntekær & Yoko Maja Hansen, Creative Directors of Bonnetje
Yoko Maja Hansen and Myntekær of Bonnetje.
Founded by Anna Myntekær and Yoko Maja Hansen, Bonnetje is a Copenhagen-based brand dedicated to circularity within fashion. By reassembling discarded suits into new, gender-blurring silhouettes, Bonnetje challenges throwaway culture. Focusing on sustainable practices, the brand reintroduces old materials into circulation, turning them inside out to reveal hidden seams, pockets and linings – paying tribute to classic tailoring. Bonnetje is a vision of how things can be beautifully reassembled for a more sustainable future.
Describe your design aesthetic in three words.
Contrasting (juxtaposition), unconventional, sophisticated.
What change would you like to see in the fashion industry in 2025?
We would like to see more slow fashion brands emerge and even greater support for up-and-coming designers.
When it comes to the future of fashion, what excites you the most?
The openness to new ways of thinking about fashion and production. There’s such a positive shift toward sustainability, and it’s inspiring to see how creativity and responsibility can go hand in hand.
What do you think is the key to defining a strong creative vision?
It’s about constantly developing and challenging yourself and your creative ideas. Don’t be afraid to break the rules and embrace bold ideas.
How do community and collaboration shape the growth of the Scandinavian fashion scene?
Experienced professionals in the field actively support and mentor new designers, creating an environment where creativity and collaboration thrive to help each other instead of being competitors.
Elisabet Stamm, Creative Director of Stamm
Founded in 2022 by Danish designer Elisabet Stamm, Stamm embraces energy, empowerment and expression. Known for its gender-fluid styling, Stamm blurs the lines between strong and sensitive, high fashion and low-key, creating designs that reflect a unique dualism. This diverse dialogue is key to the brand, firmly establishing ‘exchange’ as an extension of its ethos. With an international outlook, Stamm won the ZSA Zalando Sustainability Award following its debut runway show at Copenhagen Fashion Week AW23.
Describe your design aesthetic in three words.
Dimensional, sensible, expressive.
What change would you like to see in the fashion industry in 2025?
I would like to see a shift from an overload of superficial content to relevant substance. I would like to hear more from creators.
I would like to see a power shift. I would like to see business talent and creative talent merge and rise hand in hand. I would like to see sustainability translated into brands and designers centring the work and offering less, but more. More depth, more craft, more juice, more value.
When it comes to the future of fashion, what excites you the most?
I’m not interested in the future of fashion as a separate institution right now. I’m interested in the future of ALL. Before excitement, I have hope. Excitement in a time of crisis is what easily makes fashion seem irrelevant. I hope and pray that people will come together and unify. That goes for fashion as well. The power of people, the power of building bridges is the only thing I can find important and worthwhile to think of as I believe it is needed.
What do you think is the key to defining a strong creative vision?
Passion. Passion towards what you do and you need that in order to manifest and bring anything from a vision to a reality. Repetition. Repetition since there is much noise to cut through and also since people like the comfort of knowing what you bring. Let it be close to yourself, in that way, you never get completely lost, but don’t let the vision be bigger than yourself, in that way, you stay humble and relevant.
How do community and collaboration shape the growth of the Scandinavian fashion scene?
I think the growth in awareness of the Scandinavian fashion scene has been shaped tremendously by Copenhagen Fashion Week and its dedication towards criteria of a more sustainable industry and fashion week and towards highlighting emerging talents. At large I think really coming together and joining forces is still something we are ‘baby-stepping’ and that’s positive! It takes time to teach an old dog new tricks.
I see great potential and I’m an advocate of bringing people together. Both of the words ‘community’ and ‘collaboration’ are very widespread currently. Just like the word ‘sustainability’ was some years back. Neither community nor collaboration can be forced. I believe people have to genuinely want to merge and evolve by letting differences be second priority next to what we can contribute if we unite.