See all the backstage photos from Fashion in Helsinki 2024

Yesterday at Helsinki Shipyard, five of Finland’s most celebrated designers showcased their work for the third annual Fashion in Helsinki Fashion Show. We take an exclusive look backstage

At yesterday’s Fashion in Helsinki runway show, models descended an endless staircase to walk straight through a cavernous shipyard. Established in 1865 and still in use today, the Helsinki Shipyard is a grand, industrial space that has never seen this sort of action. “I’ve worked here for 30 years and it’s the first time I’ve seen a fashion show,” confirms a hard-hatted worker doubling as a show producer for the evening. The dry dock on which the show took place often houses massive icebreakers and cruise vessels. The only thing separating the 850 guests from drowning in the Baltic sea was a massive steel door.

The third annual Fashion in Helsinki runway show (spearheaded by art director and Balenciaga muse Minttu Vasela), the lineup consisted of five of the city’s most celebrated talents. Because the show falls between seasons, most designers opt to show the best of their last two collections. First up, we found Rolf Ekroth’s chic woodsmen, in their technical skirts, oversized military jackets and floral balaclavas. Up next, Hedvig’s ladylike high-necked dresses, juxtaposed by long leather gloves and asymmetrical flannel skirts. Then there were Sofia Ilmonen’s signature modular designs, marked by drop-waists and a certain loose corsetry (the pieces were made in collaboration with sustainable textile innovator Spinnova). Second to last came Vain’s industrial workwear, the mousetraps and cheese motifs nodding to the nine-to-five rat race. And finally, Jenny Hytönen’s fetishy fantasy of frocks and sheer separates, studded, pierced and finished with buckles and straps.

The backstage, held in what’s normally the yard-workers’ cafeteria, instantly changed into a Prosecco-heavy afterparty following the show. As we stumbled out into the Helsinki twilight, the workers waved us a cheery farewell. See all the behind-the-scenes images below.

Rolf Ekroth

Photo: Angelina Ilmast

Hedvig

Photo: Angelina Ilmast

Sofia Ilmonen

Photo: Angelina Ilmast

Vain

Photo: Angelina Ilmast

Jenny Hytönen

Photo: Angelina Ilmast

Fashion in Helsinki Runway Vain