In an interplay between imagination and reality, Helmstedt’s autumn/winter '25 collection is a testament to its founder’s beautifully outlandish aesthetics
“A serene dream.” This is how Emilie Helmstedt, founder and designer, describes her eponymously named brand's autumn/winter '25 collection. With warming winter hues, dulcet designs, and the ever-present fusion between art and fashion, for her, this collection "captures the essence of whimsical fantasies", in which “every stitch is a gentle invitation to dream a little deeper.”
Sumptuously peachy oranges, tender greens, and tranquil sky blues set the scene for garments so ethereal and dreamlike that they are “a testament to the magic that exists both above us and within our imaginations.” Oversized, soft, and flowing silhouettes are delicately adorned with pearls, beading, and bows – elements Helmstedt has embraced since its inception in 2018 – never overdone but abundant enough to evoke the whimsical theme of the collection. In something of a marriage between art and fashion, watercolours have been transformed into prints, so delicate and gentle that they appear to “flow like whispers of clouds” across garments, such is the imagery that comes to life in Helmstedt’s poem: an ode to her collection and its otherworldly aesthetics.
For Helmstedt, “each style tells a small story through its carefully chosen embroidery.” Signature and beloved motifs of strawberries, starry constellations and emoji-like alien heads appear throughout the collection, scattered across pillowy knitwear, kitsch coordinates and the ever-beloved poufy dresses. Casual basics receive the brand’s distinctive touch, with lettuce hems and embroidered necklines, whilst plain black pieces come alive with decorative embroidery – perhaps a fish or a flower - unique, refined and exquisite in its transformation of the intangible into reality.
See the full Helmstedt autumn/winter '25 collection below.