Henrik Vibskov unveiled his eponymous brand's autumn/winter '25 collection in a theatrical manner, which boasted from nature-inspired influences blended with a sporty feel
It’s a diamond-rare occasion to see the creative director of a fashion brand perform at their label’s runway show, but attendees at Henrik Vibskov’s autumn/winter ‘25 spectacle were treated to just that. Staged at the Theatre Republique, a sprawling table draped in white linen sat in the middle of the space, laden with half-eaten plates, champagne bottles, mossy rocks, sculptures and bowling pins, evoking the aftermath of a decadent and hedonistic party. Next to it, Vibskov, alongside his close friend and collaborator, musician Mikkel Hess and his Hess Is More collective, orchestrated a soundscape that morphed from otherworldly to groovy as models paraded around and atop the table.
Although Vibskov also works as the costume designer and drummer for Hess’ Apollonian Circles concert and art installation, currently running at Theatre Republique, that wasn’t where the inspiration for his eponymous brand’s AW25 collection, entitled ‘A bit Overwhelmed by the Opaque Resonance’ struck. Instead, it was during a family trip to the breathtaking Dolomite Mountains in Italy. “We were wandering around, and that sparked the whole notion of how we explore, try to control and dominate nature, with things like extreme sports and science – without veering too much to the negative side,” Vibskov explains. “I was looking at all the animals up there, the panoramas and the colours and how nature resets itself after traces of humans.”
Once back home in Copenhagen, Vibskov sought to translate the contrasts of the serenity of nature and human power over it into clothing, with landscapes as the driving force behind the AW25 collection. Some silhouettes have been plucked from extreme sports like mountaineering (note the ‘Alpine’ inscription adorning many a garment) and wingsuiting (see: puffed sleeves of chunky knits) while others were informed by influences drawn from various uniforms, outerwear and wilderness survival. Echoes, sounds and visuals from the scenery Vibskov encountered come to life in earthy hues that meet splashes of tangerine and zesty yellow.
Heavy on vibrant, playful prints the collection boasts eccentric patterns depicting mountain goats, fishermen and footsteps – reminders of the tracks we’re leaving on Earth – cloaking oversized technical jackets, jumpsuits, parachute trousers and lightweight shirting. Elsewhere, more traditional motifs – think pinstripes, plaids, houndstooth, supersized polka dots and stripes – have found their way into funky knitwear and boxy tailoring.
As the AW25 spectacle reached its climax, met with raucous applause and whistles, it was clear that Vibskov put the ‘show’ into fashion show. And fret not – the striking scenography won’t go to waste. Sourced from the theatre’s prop room, it will be reused in a performance following the presentation. Vibskov’s night doesn’t end there, either. “Two hours after the show, I also have to play drums again,” he says.
See all the looks from Henrik Vibskov's autumn/winter '25 collection below:
