When creating the latest launch for Hermès beauty, the maison’s creative director of beauty Gregoris Pyrpylis tapped into the creativity of childhood. Below, we explore the 40 new eye- and lipliners and tap Pyrpylis' top makeup tip for Scandinavian women
“You know, I try to recall times in my past when I felt truly free from the fear of judgement. As a child, I was always drawing, colouring, and designing with pencils in hand. Those were my most creative moments,” says Gregoris Pyrpylis, Hermès’ creative director of beauty. The reason Pyrpylis reminisces about childhood is not as far-fetched as it might initially seem. We’re speaking on the occasion of one of the French heritage brand’s most significant beauty launches of the year: a line-up of 40 liners – 24 eye pencils and 16 lip liners – dubbed Le Trait and rendered in a curated yet vibrantly colourful scheme.
True to his roots, Pyrpylis turned to his own uninhibited experiences with coloured pencils for inspiration, urging us to view our faces as blank canvases. “This collection speaks to those who appreciate colour, whether they are already passionate about it or just beginning to explore,” he says.
It’s no surprise that Hermès, synonymous with its iconic orange, excels at curating colour. The collection features that signature hue alongside deep blues and bold greens, with more subtle nods to Hermès’ extensive archive, such as muted browns and blacks echoing the tones of their leather goods. In fact, the brand’s vast library of over 75,000 silk colour references and 900 leather materials in Lyon, France, serves as a resource Pyrpylis drew upon when narrowing down the 40 shades.
One of the reasons eye pencils and lip liners are fundamental to beauty routines is their accessibility. They’re essentials, like mascara, but more universally appealing than, say, highlighter.
Gregoris Pyrpylis, Hermès' creative director of beauty
Photo: Hermès
Editing the shades, however, was no easy feat. “We initially had many more shades, and the editing process was the hardest part. I can be quite indecisive, especially when I’m passionate about a variety of options,” Pyrpylis admits. “It felt like choosing between things you love, which made it difficult.”
The final collection strikes a balance between classic, wearable colours and those that push boundaries. “For instance, we included shades that appeal to those who prefer a more understated, nude look, like varied browns and beiges,” he shares. His personal favourite? A striking Prussian blue. “Growing up in Greece, I was heavily influenced by the limitless shades of the ocean, and I would argue that it’s a colour that captivates you, whether or not you typically like blue.”
The new liners are complemented by a selection of brushes and tools. Photo: Hermès
But why liners? “One of the reasons eye pencils and lip liners are fundamental to beauty routines is their accessibility. They’re essentials, like mascara, but more universally appealing than, say, highlighter,” Pyrpylis explains. “It’s easier to wear a peacock green eyeliner than a disco green eyeshadow.” This nuanced approach to colour resonates with Hermès’ discerning clientele. “Our customers, who are deeply in love with colour, appreciate even the subtlest nuances.”
A significant challenge during the conceptualisation of the collection was deciding on the formulation. “I thought, why not create a formula that combines the best of both kohl and classic eye pencils?” Pyrpylis recalls. The result is an eyeliner that glides on with the smooth, creamy texture of kohl, while retaining the precision of a pencil tip, delivering rich pigment without pressure. “It’s water-resistant, not waterproof, so it stays put throughout the day without smudging, even in warmer, more humid conditions,” he shares. “Achieving this balance was challenging, as long-lasting products often need to be waterproof, which can be harsh and difficult to remove.”
When asked about the more muted Nordic approach to beauty, Pyrpylis responds with admiration. “Many of the most admired beauties in this industry come from Scandinavian countries. Ask anyone from Italy, Greece, or Spain, and they’ll tell you how beautiful people from Sweden and Norway are.” He encourages those in the Nordics to explore the colourful options, even if it’s just a simple liner to dip a toe into the full chromatic experience. “I understand that Nordic beauty tends to lean towards a natural palette, but I’ve noticed more pops of colour appearing on social media – especially on Instagram. That’s a promising shift,” he says.
The new collection of eyeliners and lip pencils are now available on hermes.com