Long an inspiration to designers of all backgrounds, nature played a central role in this year’s high jewellery collections. Read on to discover our editor-in-chief Martina Bonnier’s top nature-inspired picks from this year
Inherently, pieces of High Jewellery are celebrations of nature. Featuring the finest precious stones in the world, they exalt the beauty that our Earth has created over the millennia. Some collections, however, take that appreciation one step further, fashioning literal depictions of flora and fauna out of fine metals and gemstones. Long a staple in many maison’s repertoires, this thematic display was exhibited in full force in 2024, with many brands drawing on the natural world in their designs. Below, discover Vogue Scandinavia editor-in-chief Martina Bonnier’s picks of the most stunning nature-inspired High Jewellery pieces this year.
Damiani
Photo: Courtesy of Damiani
Celebrating its 100th anniversary this year, Damiani presented a High Jewellery collection emblematic of its distinctive style. Inspired by the mimosa flower, each piece was a textural delight, with frothy layers of gemstones mimicking the flower’s effervescent appearance. “This necklace features nine drop-cut corals, and their hue is brilliant” imparts Bonnier, saying, “surrounded by hundreds of brilliant-cut gems (48 diamonds, 445 pink sapphires, and 91 rubies), the coral evokes a tropical destination.”
Cartier
Photo: Courtesy of Cartier
Photo: Courtesy of Martina Bonnier
It wouldn’t be a Cartier collection without its iconic panther, and the maison did not disappoint this year. Their High Jewellery collection, entitled Nature Sauvage, was full of references to the natural world, but a major standout was this ring-bracelet. “Seeing this in person, I can say that the construction alone makes it a masterpiece,” says Bonnier. “The 8.63-carat Zambian emerald is beautifully echoed in the panther’s green eye, and the sapphire spots add variety amongst the diamonds.”
Bulgari
Photo: Courtesy of Bulgari
Just as Cartier has the panther, Bulgari has the serpent. The maison’s choice of motif is highly symbolic, with snakes representing everything from eternity and rebirth to sensuality and passion. This piece, the Serpenti Sapphire Echo necklace, features a two-headed serpent that winds around the neck, culminating in two sapphire pendants, each over 37.34 carats. Reflecting on the necklace, Bonnier shared, “the two pendants are detachable, which brings versatility to the piece. With diamonds and buff-top sapphires comprising the scales of the snake, no detail is left behind.”
Gucci
Photo: Courtesy of Gucci
Gucci’s Labirinti collection was created with a focus on both the order and the nature of an Italian garden. Representing that untamed side was the dragonfly motif, a new addition that symbolises freedom and rebirth. “The earring set I’ve chosen is whimsical in its asymmetry, but still shines with the glamour that only gems like this can bring,'' says Bonnier. Indeed, with pink spinels, emeralds, and white diamonds brought together in this piece, Gucci has brought the grace of the dragonfly to High Jewellery.
Tiffany & Co.
Photo: Courtesy of Tiffany & Co.
Photo: Jeff Kravitz / Getty Images
Tiffany & Co.’s High Jewellery collection this year was inspired by the work of Jean Schlumberger, with a section specifically devoted to his penchant for portraying wings. This particular set of wings belong to Pegasus, the mythological winged horse, though here they are rendered in exquisite diamonds. “The amount of work and time that goes into a necklace like this is unimaginable," says Bonnier. “With a 20-carat oval diamond centrepiece, it's no wonder that this necklace was all anyone could talk about after Jennifer Lopez wore it at the Met Gala."
Piaget
Photo: Courtesy of Piaget
On the occasion of its 150th anniversary, Piaget’s Extraleganza collection melded extravagance and elegance, both linguistically and in the designs. “The attention to detail and work with colour throughout is breathtaking,” says Bonnier, “but I loved this set. It’s a bit more subtle but still has flair.” The earcuff and stud are composed of blue sapphires, green tourmalines, aquamarines, turquoises, opals, and diamonds, highlighting the diversity of gemstones. With its cascading effect, the piece calls to mind the beauty of trailing vines or falling water.