The ultimate kanelbulle recipe, according to a master baker

Kanelbulle holds a pivotal role in the traditions of Swedish fika, and in the pursuit of perfection, it has arguably become the most hotly-debated baked item in the book. Over time, Swedes have meticulously adjusted the recipe, the proofing, the baking time, the knot shape, and the method countless times. Indeed, this is a bun is always evolving.

Related: The best spots to grab a cinnamon bun in Stockholm

My son often tells me he’s "a bit hungry for a kanelbulle" after nursery school. I think he’s onto something, because sometimes, only a kanelbulle can hit the spot when you’re a little peckish. When I’m on holiday and away from the bakery, I really notice how much I miss this treat. By mid-morning, I’m always craving a kanelbulle.

Makes around 30-50 buns, depending on size

Dough
500g lukewarm water
30g yeast
250g spelt flour (preferably wholegrain spelt, otherwise sifted spelt)
7½g salt
200g caster sugar
1 egg
15g ground cardamom
900g wheat flour
200g butter

Butter filling
400g room temperature butter
150g caster sugar
150g dark muscovado sugar
5g salt
Ground cinnamon
Cane sugar

Sugar syrup
100g water
1½ lemons, juiced
½ vanilla pod
100g cane sugar

Egg wash
1 egg
A splash of water
A pinch of salt

Final touch
Pearl sugar

1. Place water and yeast in a bowl and stir until the yeast is dissolved.
2. Add spelt flour, salt, sugar, egg, and cardamom, and mix with your hands into a smooth, sticky dough.
3. Work the wheat flour into the dough with your hands.
4. Turn the dough out onto a table and gradually knead in the butter. Knead until the dough is smooth and elastic.
5. Let the dough rest for 20 minutes under a kitchen towel.
6. Knead the dough on the table with your hands until it feels elastic and smooth, about 5-10 minutes.
7. Cover with a kitchen towel and let rise for another 20 minutes.
8. Knead the dough one last time, flatten it into a square, and place it in the fridge for about 30-45 minutes. The dough is easier to work with when cold.

9. Butter filling: Meanwhile, mix butter, caster sugar, muscovado sugar, and salt in a bowl until smooth and creamy.
10. Roll out the dough on a lightly floured surface into a rectangle about 40 x 50cm. Spread the butter filling evenly over the dough.
11. Mix cinnamon and cane sugar in a bowl and sprinkle 70g of the mixture over the butter filling.
12. Make a tri-fold. Roll out the dough into a rectangle about 20 x 90cm.
13. Cut the dough into even strips about 1cm wide with a large knife.
14. Tie, twist or roll the strips into your desired bun shape. We usually tie them like a boat rope, wrapping the strip around two fingers a few times and finishing with a loop in the middle.
15. Place the buns on baking trays lined with parchment paper and cover them with plastic wrap. Let rise for 1½-2 hours at room temperature.

16. Sugar syrup: Make the syrup while the buns are rising: Bring water, lemon juice, and the vanilla pod to boil in a saucepan. Add the cane sugar and cook until dissolved. Set aside.
17. Pre-heat the oven to 240C.
18. Egg wash: Whisk together the egg, water, and salt, and brush the buns.
19. Top with the remaining cinnamon and cane sugar mixture.
20. Bake one tray at a time in the middle of the oven. Lower the temperature to 200C and bake until the buns are golden brown and done about 8-10 minutes. Immediately brush them with the sugar syrup.
21. Top with pearl sugar.