“I’ve never shown my work like this before”: Inside couturiere Lars Wallin's upcoming jubilee exhibition

“I’ve never shown my work like this before,” says renowned Swedish couturier Lars Wallin ahead of his grand 35-year jubilee exhibition at Artipelag, an art museum perched by the sea in Gustavsberg, less than an hour’s drive from central Stockholm. While it’s the designer’s third time presenting his masterpieces in the Swedish capital, to celebrate this milestone, he wanted to arrange a very special treat. 

“This is going to be my most personal exhibition,” he says. “We’re working with my book [Avklädd (Undressed)], and the visitors will see all the dresses that I have made through my eyes – I think that’s going to be a totally new experience.” Curated by Wallin himself, the exhibition features over 140 one-of-a-kind, handcrafted couture dresses, wedding gowns and stage costumes, plucked from Wallin’s personal archives, as well as borrowed from private clients’ wardrobes. What’s more, many of these precious pieces will be shown to the public for the very first time.

Enter the showcase, and you’re immersed in Wallin’s atelier – the birthplace of his singular creations, punctuated by mood boards, toiles, mannequins, sketches and luxe fabrics. For Wallin, it was a must to place the sweeping atelier experience first before visitors venture towards the dresses, to provide a rare glimpse into his artistic process, highlighting the amount of time and effort that goes into creating each garment. “You really see the different aspects about the work and the craftsmanship involved – from featherwork and embroidery to cutting and pattern-making – all the steps required to make a couture dress,” Wallin says. “When you know how much work it takes and you see how it’s done, you will understand the dresses much more.”

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After soaking up the atelier, the catwalk awaits – literally. For the set design, Wallin sought to create a runway-like layout that stretches through the entire exhibition. Dotting the catwalk, his creations are arranged not chronologically, but intentionally mixed, emphasising the timelessness of Wallin’s designs. “With the whole fast fashion industry and its problems, I think it’s important to look at clothes that don’t have a best-before date,” he explains. “I’ll tell all the visitors that instead of reading the texts for each dress, they should try to guess which one is the oldest and which one is the newest. I think they’ll find it difficult, which makes a point today.”

Fresh out of the acclaimed Beckmans College of Design, Wallin dove straight into the deep end, establishing his own couture label in 1990. Having always been drawn to beautiful things, Wallin recalls early influences, admiring his mum getting ready for parties in the 1970s, which sparked his fascination with eveningwear. This passion was further fuelled by TV programs offering behind-the-scenes peeks into French couture houses, with Wallin in awe of their “uncompromising work, where everything was focused to have the best of everything – the best tailors and the best fabrics”.

It’s an ethos Wallin has stuck to throughout his career, which has seen the award-winning couturier and his skilled team craft exquisite pieces for everyone from global celebrities and Swedish royals to the Gustav III ballet performed at the Swedish Royal Opera. The exhibition at Artipelag pays homage to these career highlights and treasured memories, marking the first time Wallin has received permission from the Royal Court to include one of his designs for the Swedish royal family. On display will be the dreamy champagne-hued gown that Princess Sofia wore at a state banquet with the French first family last year. Other standout moments include what Wallin describes as a “special wedding room,” featuring an array of newly designed enchanting wedding gowns unveiled to the public for the very first time.

“I think you feel the body in my clothes. I want them to be a celebration of the female form, glamour and passion,” Wallin says. “My goal is to create a truly special experience for my customers – like the bubbles in Champagne. There’s a lot of focus on the details and finding a harmonious balance even if the piece has a lot of decorations.” Pouring his heart and soul into every garment he makes, Wallin says, “I always think that the dress I’m currently doing is the last one I’ll ever do. I don’t take anything for granted. It makes you work even harder for that final piece.”

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Thrilled to be able to welcome people into his extraordinary universe, Wallin hopes that the exhibition will ignite vital conversations on the detriments of fast fashion and the value of slow fashion – encouraging the idea of buying less while investing in quality garments to cherish for years to come.

The designer also strives to offer a much-needed flicker of escapism. “I want to provide a break from all the darkness in the world right now – to see some glitter is to see a reflection of light. I think that’s beautiful energy,” he says. “Even if you don't like clothes you can simply visit the exhibition to experience a beautiful installation, find inspiration, dream away, feel the heart and see something beautiful in the world. I really think we need that right now.”

Lars Wallin's jubilee exhibition 35 Years of Fashion Stories runs at Artipelag from the 7th of March to the 7th of September, 2025.