Clingy, cut-out, pleated, or billowing, this season’s hemlines go long – way long
Diametrically opposed hemlines ruled the runway this spring/summer season. As short-short skirts mingled with ultimate long-lined maxis, the hemlines rose and fell in a boiling pot of sartorial politics. The prevailing skirt length varied with each presented look, sending us on a rollercoaster of shifting silhouettes – a veritable “hemline index” (an unproven but largely credible theory aligning hemline lengths with the economic swings of the world market).
The fact that trends are speeding up is now irrefutable. “Until the second half of the 1960s, it was basically a single skirt length that applied in fashion at any one time,” explains Marie Schön, textile conservator at Nordiska Museet in Stockholm. The big fashion houses dominated as trendsetters until the second half of the 20th century, when, according to Schön, “subcultures increasingly began to take over as the source of new fashion trends.” A seismic shift allowed several styles to be in fashion simultaneously, including different skirt lengths.
On the runway, this mish-mash of trends saw not only a variety of hemlines hugging model hips but also a marvellous array of materials and takes on a single style. Take the floor-sweeping silhouettes stepping into the spotlight, for example. Be it the alluring hooded dress, draped just so by Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent or Alberta Ferretti’s chock of orange; a long-line chocolate knit from Jil Sander by Lucie and Luke Meier or a figure-hugging jersey number by Ann Demeulemeester – these dresses oozes subtle sex appeal.
So if you’re planning to slink off into the darkness and stay out long past dawn, may we suggest you don any of the following ankle-grazing gowns – topped by a pair of jet-black sunnies for some added mystique.
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Hooded draped dress, €4,690, Sunglasses, €495. Both Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. Silver bracelet, €950, Small round silver ring, €120, Big round silver ring, €390. All Marc Deloche. Photo: Claudia Knoepfel
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Photo: Claudia Knoepfel
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Crinkled maxi dress made from sustainable acetate, €590. Anna October. Bracelet, price upon request. Loewe. Photo: Claudia Knoepfel
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Hooded draped dress, €1,290. Alberta Ferreti. Green onyx necklace, price upon request. Dinh Van. Gold ring, €2,250. Unsaid. 18k gold vermeil chain necklace, €780. Sophie Buhai. Photo: Claudia Knoepfel
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Multi strap tank top, €90, Cotton skirt, €150. Both A.w.a.k.e Mode TITLE TITLE. 18k gold diamond necklace, €77,000. Tiffany & Co. Gold earrings with sterling silver finishing, €550. Bottega Veneta. Photo: Claudia Knoepfel
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Leather jacket, price upon request, Maxi dress, €4,500. Both Coperni. 925 sterling silver earrings, €360. Transe Paris. Leather shoes, €385. By Far. Photo: Claudia Knoepfel
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Cotton dress, price upon request. Jil Sander by Lucie and Luke Meier. Choker made of brass dipped in palladium and pale gold 24k, €260, Earrings made of brass dipped in palladium or pale gold 24k, €65. Both Justine Clenquet. Photo: Claudia Knoepfel
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Photo: Claudia Knoepfel
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Asymmetric two piece jersey dress, €550. Gauchere. Gold vermeil necklace, price upon request. Charlotte Chesnais. Gold ring, €2,250. Unsaid. Leather high heels with lace detail, €1,190. Versace. Photo: Claudia Knoepfel
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Hooded draped dress, €2,500. Versace. 18k yellow gold fish necklace, €14,600. Alexandra Rosier. Leather high heels with lace detail, €1,190. Versace. Photo: Claudia Knoepfel
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Leather jacket, price upon request. Maxi dress, €4,500. Both Coperni. 925 sterling silver ring with luminous stones, price upon request. Le Papillon. Silver ring, €320. Marc Deloche. Photo: Claudia Knoepfel
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Photo: Claudia Knoepfel
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Deep neckline dress, price upon request. A.w.a.k.e Mode. Gold face shaped necklace, price upon request. Samuel François. Photo: Claudia Knoepfel
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Long sleeve jersey dress, €890. Ann Demeulemeester. Gold spider pendant necklace, price upon request, Gold cuff, price upon request, Gold earrings, price upon request. All Mene. Photo: Claudia Knoepfel
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925 sterling silver earrings, €360. Transe Paris. Photo: Claudia Knoepfel
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Photo: Claudia Knoepfel
Photographer: Claudia Knoepfel
Stylist: Emmanuelle Ramos
Makeup Artist: Lili Choi
Hair Stylist: Kazue Deki
Model: Nyarach Ayuel
Photographer Assistant: Bryan Monaco
Stylist Assistants: Thelma, Ece Acar
Digi Tech: Benjamin Marois
Casting: Kornelia Eklund
Producer: Florent Norcereau
Video by Gabriele Renna
Music by Tesla Death Ray, Taxi Gauche Records
