The French maison presented a collection that reflects 19th-century Paris, looking to Louis Vuitton's own history
This year, all eyes are on France. From fashion week to Vogue World: Paris, the election to the Olympics, the country has been centre stage in discourse both within and outside the fashion world.
It’s only fitting, then, that Louis Vuitton has chosen to pay homage to France’s history with their 2024 High Jewellery collection, ‘Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds.’ With a focus on the transformative period of the 19th century, the collection is a physical representation of the era’s swirling transformation. “France in the 19th century was a phenomenal time of incredible change, and when Paris really became the centre of the world,” Artistic Director for Watches and Jewellery at Louis Vuitton Francesca Amfitheatrof reflected. The aesthetic and technical codes of the collection mirror that change, she says, all the century’s “intricacies, implications and innovations - turned into incredible jewels”.
Spanning 13 themes and composed of 220 masterpiece jewels, Amfitheatrof’s sixth (and largest) collection begins with the influence of Louis Vuitton himself, who first arrived in Paris in 1837. “Craftsmanship becomes the currency of this country,” Amfitheatrof says of the period, “It is the birth of France’s Art de Vivre - and the birth of what we know as luxury today.” The collection’s inspirational material spans through the century, when the maison as we know it today was cemented. With the geometry of the industrial age paired with the innovation of intellectual discovery, ‘Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds,’ is both a reflection of the past and a window into the future.
Below, explore the key pieces and themes in Louis Vuitton’s ‘Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds’ collection:
A woven mosaic
Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
Drawing on the detailed weave of fabric, the ‘Phenomenal’ necklace features intricate patterns, made all the more visible through the use of both bi-colour platinum and yellow gold. Though the necklace cuts a strong silhouette, it is deceptively supple, with the subtle reference to the letter V calling back to house codes. Surrounded by diamonds, the 5.07-carat Zambian emerald punctuates the piece.
Regal repetition
Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
With rows of diamonds stacked high, the ‘Perception’ necklace evokes 19th-century France’s mechanised expansion. The repetition of geometric patterns highlights the layered rings, covered with diamonds that oscillate in their size to bring dynamic sparkle. The two central sapphires, 20.01 carats from Ceylon and 7.08 carats from Madagascar, respectively, draw the eye inward, their blue hue a rich contrast to the diamonds.
Fit for a queen
Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
The ‘Elegance’ tiara is a true standout. Not only does it hold historical significance as Louis Vuitton’s first tiara, but its all-diamond theme allows the craftsmanship and technical prowess of the piece to shine. With LV Monogram Star cut diamonds crowning the diadem, the tiara also makes reference to tremblant jewellery making, which sees certain features affixed with springs to create motion when worn.
Interlinked technique
Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
Channelling the expansion of travel in the 19th century, the ‘Vision’ necklace makes references to the metal rivets of Louis Vuitton’s iconic trunks, with LV Diamond and V-shaped constructions keeping the brand’s logo front of mind. Hewn from platinum and yellow gold, and featuring yellow sapphires, the necklace took 2504 hours to create, with the incredibly detailed interlocking pieces requiring five jewellers to mount and set it.
An architectural abstraction
Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
Marking the end of the collection, the ‘Apotheosis: Coeur de Paris’ necklace is inspired by Paris’ most famed sight: the Eiffel Tower. “Imagine you are standing underneath the Tour Eiffel and looking up… You’re really looking up at the heart of Paris,” says Amfitheatrof. The delicate spindles of rose gold directly draw on that view, while the central 56.23-carat diamond can be detached and worn as a brooch - yet another reminder that adaptation goes hand-in-hand with innovation, in the 19th century and today.