Pivoting from the paper doll fashions of last year, Marc Jacobs fascination with 2D cartoons continues. For autumn/winter '24, the American designer brought more characters to life with his over-the-top makeup looks
When Marc Jacobs showed his spring/summer '24 collection in February earlier this year, the runway was populated by playful paper dolls. The collection stole the show as Jacobs' 2D illusions — every silhouette flattened to fit the theme — began populating our social media feeds. The fascination with the American designer's 40th anniversary collection was undoubtedly caused by a modicum of nostalgia for the old-school fashion pastime. As if to drive home his paper-and-scissor inspiration, the glams saw '60s-style bouffants teased sky-high and spindly doll-like lashes.
But Jacobs wasn't satisfied with this allusion to the two-dimensional. His most recent showing took the sketch-like concept and amped it up to Looney Tunes levels. The show opened with Marilyn Monroe's white frock from The Seven Year Itch frozen in time. This sense of the slightly surreal set the tempo for the rest of the show and its Cartoon Network-coded silhouettes: the cone-shaped busts, baby-doll dresses, and a bell-shaped polka dot skirt that could have been plucked right out of Minnie Mouse's wardrobe.
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At first glance, Jacobs' larger-than-life direction – especially in the makeup stool – may not be deemed the most wearable look. Much like Pat McGrath's doll-like porcelain finish at Margiela's Haute Couture show in January, Marc Jacobs' expressive eyes packs an impractical punch. As if plucked straight from a comic strip with little concern for the real world.
That is until you break down the details of the look.
Photo: Hunter Abrams
Photo: Hunter Abrams
Photo: Hunter Abrams
To achieve the effect, makeup artist Diane Kendal dusted matte, colourful eyeshadow across the models' lids. Which were then covered up by two silk eyelid-shaped eye covers with exaggerated eyelashes. Beyond the eyes, the glam team kept the look surprisingly simple, steering clear of colour on the lips and cheeks and finishing off the overall look with the twirl of a micro fringe.
If you, like us, prefer to see during the day-to-day of your life, modifying Kendal's look for Marc Jacobs is actually surprisingly easy to achieve. Simply skip the silk covers and focus on the brightly-coloured lid. A one-tone pastel applied all over the lid will serve you well. Finish with a lengthening mascara and the piece de resistance of these animated eyes — a substantial stack of false lashes.
