MKTD Studio's autumn/winter '25 collection transformed friction into tangible, celestial, and exquisitely tailored garments that embodied energy and movement
Friction. The fickle physical force that’s part of our daily lives – and the spark behind MKTD Studio’s creative director Caroline Engelgaar’s inspiration for autumn/winter ‘25. “Friction is energy: the resistance between surfaces, the tension in human interactions, and even the push-and-pull of materials. It’s a powerful metaphor for the times we live in,” she explains. “The world feels unsteady, with the climate crisis, economic struggles, and conflict creating chaos. In this disruption, people respond differently – some work towards a more sustainable and connected future, while others focus inward. These divisions remind us how fractured the world can feel, but also how much energy there is in those fractures.”
Seeking to render friction into something tangible and visible, Engelgaar began navigating concepts of movement and energy, which form the foundation of MKTD Studio’s AW25 collection. She pondered, “Could a garment feel like it carries the pulse of electricity? Could it capture the rhythm of sound?” The designer notes Swiss artist Zimoun as one of this season’s most profound influences, with his soundscapes and sculptures capturing “the balance between order and disorder, much like the world around us. This collection is about channeling that energy – turning tension into something meaningful.”
Enter sculpted and layered silhouettes swathed in luxurious fabrics that range from heavy-weight wool and soft cashmere that cocoon the body like a warm hug to supple silk – some of which is strewn with resplendent glass pearl embroidery for an “electric feel of sound waves” – and celestial, light-as-air chiffon. A significant part of the collection’s development involved studying how materials behave and how they can be shaped and moulded. This led Engelgaar to incorporate Japanese folding techniques, where activated pleats and plissé accent undulating monochromatic maxi skirts and capes, as well as voluminous, architectural shirting. Introducing friction between textures and tones, iridescent warm brown technical fabric cloaks slouchy suiting. In the AW25 collection, Engelgaard flaunts her tailoring prowess – a hallmark of MKTD Studio – executing razor-sharp lines that mingle with curved shapes.
Set within the high-ceilinged sculptural hall nestled in the Statens Museum of Kunst, Engelgaar couldn’t have envisioned a more fitting location for the presentation. Accompanied by wistful piano music interwoven with metallic, repetitive sounds, an electric mood enveloped the room as models zigzagged through the space. With MKTD Studio’s rebranding now fully established, the AW25 offering marks a stride towards a fresh direction, where, Engelgaar says, “our goal is to become a cherished part of everyday dressing, offering a range of pieces that are both versatile and essential.”
See all the looks from MKTD Studio's autumn/winter '25 collection below:
