Finnish designer Rolf Ekroth set aside his signature nostalgia for autumn/winter ‘25, presenting a collection that delved into the darkness of Nordic winters and incorporated sports influences layered with metaphorical meaning
For his eponymous brand’s autumn/winter ‘25 collection, Rolf Ekroth explored a concept all too familiar for us here in the North: the gloomy cold-weather months. Entitled ‘No Distance Left to Run’, after the song of the same name by legendary British rock band Blur – a personal favourite of Ekroth’s – the Finnish designer explains: “The Nordic darkness, and how to survive it, served as the starting point this season.”
So, how does one brave the bleakest time of the year? “For me personally, it’s staying active and doing sports,” Ekroth says, noting that due to an injury, he hasn’t been able to partake in any in a year, which has been “tough”. Sports – a recurring theme in the brand’s collections – and more specifically, running, serve as one of the defining threads in the AW25 line-up, manifesting literally in 15 variations of trackpants, short-and-leggings combos and running vests. But it also carries a metaphorical meaning. “When you’re leading your own label, it’s a constant race against time and money – you’re basically running a race you can’t win,” Ekroth says. “And then, once you’ve crossed the finish line, you forget all about it and get excited about the next idea, and start the race again… maybe the theme is a bit somber.”
While Ekroth’s last few collections have revelled in nostalgia, the designer decided not to tap into this signature narrative this season. Instead, he embraced a fresh perspective, down to reimagining old patterns previously used. The moody Nordic winter takes form in the collection’s dark colour palette, summoning inky blacks, rich browns, deep greens and oxblood reds. Fashioned in oversized silhouettes met with slimmer shapes, the offering’s highlight lies in the dynamic interplay of prints and textures, harnessing a variety of deadstock and recycled materials including cotton, corduroy, boiled wool, padded nylon and technical fabrics.
Punk-esque plaids have been patchworked into relaxed shirting, slouchy suiting and rain-and-snow-proof outerwear, with slivers also adorning baggy jeans and trackpants. A puffed dress doubles as a sleeping bag – a humorous nod to the survivalist spirit (or sisu, if you will) of weathering winter. Elsewhere, whimsical hand-painted watercolour prints – created by Ekroth’s girlfriend Matilda and her sister – envelope sporty co-ord sets and scarves.
But there’s a glimmer of light: sun-inspired jagged edges, trimming caps and denim, as well as gilded solar-shaped pins fastened to a sweater remind us that no matter what, spring and summer always arrive. Rays of sunshine (forged with flashlights) also illuminated the models, who sauntered down the running track-shaped catwalk at warehouse-cum-club Poolen, soundtracked by British greats like Portishead and, of course, Blur.
Ultimately, for Ekroth, AW25 is about returning to the fundamental building blocks for many a fashion designer: creating clothes they would want to wear themselves. And it seems it was a home run. “This could be the best collection we’ve done so far,” he muses.
See all the looks from Rolf Ekroth's autumn/winter '25 collection below.
