Fashion

How Rose & Born is measuring up for fashion's made-to-measure future

By Clare McInerney

Offering custom-made pieces crafted just for you – and made to last – Swedish tailoring house Rose & Born is proving to be a cut above the rest, pioneering in the made-to-measure game in the Nordics and beyond, where demand is only increasing. Vogue Scandinavia sits down with Edwin Nenzell, Partner & Buying Director at Rose & Born to find out more about the brand's made-to-measure mastery

In the heart of Stockholm, tucked away on the leafy waterside promenade of Strandvägen, a quiet revolution is taking place. Walk into the handsome, curved stone façade of Rose & Born’s flagship and, by appointment, make your way downstairs – where you’re welcomed by plush ivory carpets and streamlined wooden displays. Swatches of beautiful weighty cotton twills, poplins and linens are laid out across the central counter spaces. “Where should we start?” the team ask.

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This is Rose & Born’s made-to-measure hub. Serving as the Savile Row of Stockholm, representing not only a quiet revolution in fashion but a slow one – a true antidote to the industry’s fast-paced trend cycle and mass production structures. It’s true to the way the brand has functioned since it was established in 1989, with a focus on producing the highest calibre of timeless garments, but as Edwin Nenzell, Rose & Born’s Partner & Buying Director explains, the demand for made-to-measure has been increasing in recent years.

“It can be attributed to several factors,” Nenzell says of the rise in interest, particularly in Sweden and Scandinavia. “Firstly, there is a growing appreciation for individuality and personal expression. People are increasingly seeking garments that reflect their unique style and personality. Secondly, there is a heightened awareness of quality, craftsmanship and sustainable fashion in this region. Customers are more informed and discerning, they understand the value of investing in pieces that are meticulously tailored to fit them perfectly” he goes on. “Additionally, the influence of Scandinavian design, which emphasises simplicity, functionality and timelessness, aligns beautifully with our brand’s DNA and the principles of made-to-measure.” In Nenzell’s words, this is the “synergy” naturally driving the demand for Rose & Born’s offering across Scandinavia.

Over its 35-year history, Rose & Born has traditionally catered to men with its refined assortment for ‘the modern gentleman’. But now, it’s adapting and innovating to meet the needs of a growing female clientele. “We recognise the demand for high-quality, tailored clothing transcends gender;” Nenzell comments.” For this expansion, Rose & Born has collaborated with various businesses for the necessary insights into tailoring for women, which combined with its decades of experience in the craft for men, has formed an exciting step forward for the brand.

We recognise the demand for high-quality, tailored clothing transcends gender.

Edwin Nenzell, Partner & Buying Director at Rose & Born

“We are confident that this is only the beginning of steady growth in this segment, with the first women’s tailors opening on Savile Row in 2020, driven by clear demand and great appreciation,” Nenzell says. Not only has the team taken measures to understand the nuances of women’s tailoring, they’ve applied this to the materials they work with as well. “We’ve diversified our fabric choices and styles to appeal to a broader audience, ensuring that everyone finds something they truly love.”

Which brings us back to the personal made-to-measure consultation, downstairs at the flagship. “The journey begins with an initial consultation, discussing the client’s preferences, needs and lifestyle,” Nenzell says. “This is followed by a thorough measurement session, where we take precise measurements to ensure a perfect fit.” In my case, it’s a shirt, and no detail is left uncovered: from cuff length, to collar shape, to button style, to the texture of the fine cotton varieties.

“Once these decisions are made, our skilled artisans get to work, crafting the garment upon order.” Just a few weeks later, I’m notified the shirt is ready for the final fitting. “This ensures every aspect of the garment meets the client’s expectations before they take it home or we ship it wherever they desire,” Nenzell says of this step. “It’s a collaborative and enjoyable experience that results in a piece that is truly unique to the wearer,” he adds, and I couldn’t agree more.

Each piece is crafted with longevity in mind, encouraging clients to invest in quality over quantity, which inherently promotes a more sustainable consumption pattern.

Edwin Nenzell, Partner & Buying Director at Rose & Born

More than a passing phase or ‘flavour of the day’ in fashion, made-to-measure is a powerful movement, one of which Rose and Born is at the forefront. Between an ill-fitting, short-lived garment and one made with care to fit you like a glove, with quality to last a lifetime, the best choice is becoming clearer to more and more people. A choice that contributes both to better style and better sustainability.

“By its very nature, made-to-measure or made-to-order production reduces waste, as garments are created only when there is guaranteed demand, and then personally tailored,” Nenzell notes. “This eliminates the excess inventory and overproduction common in mass manufacturing. Each piece is crafted with longevity in mind, encouraging clients to invest in quality over quantity, which inherently promotes a more sustainable consumption pattern. Plus, the personal connection that clients develop with their garments often leads to better care and extended use.”

Perhaps once considered a service only suitable and accessible to a select group of male clientele, Rose & Born is proving that its made-to-measure tailoring should be the way forward for more people: more women, more quality-conscious consumers, and more who simply want a way out of the fast-fashion hamster wheel of consumption. “It’s the personal fit and attention to detail that creates the final and absolute biggest value for the client or wearer of the garment,” Nenzell says. “This is where we truly stand out, based on 35 years of experience in this field. It is also what ensures that our garments can be cherished and used for a lifetime.”