"It’s about Nordic island women. Women who are powerful, a little dangerous, but also deeply alluring,“ the Danish designer says of her AW25 collection presented in Berlin
On the outskirts of Berlin, as the sun dipped behind the city’s industrial skyline, Sia Arnika unveiled her autumn/winter '25 collection – a raw, rebellious tribute to memory, seduction, and the untamed spirit of the sea. The venue, a stark, warehouse-like space, was transformed into an immersive set by Berlin-based TOR Studio, merging organic elements like sea moss, algae, and foam with harsh artificial lighting that emulated the grit of an old harbour town. “My parents freshly fished the algae in the morning – it doesn’t get more real than that," the towering Dane quips, making my own 1,85 metres feel almost modest.
The air was thick with anticipation as fashion insiders, tastemakers, and Arnika’s fiercely loyal creative community gathered, ready to be transported into her world. And what a world it was. The AW25 collection tells the story of the 'Harbor Bitch', a figure drawn from her own childhood memories of growing up on the remote Danish island of Mors. "There was always this one factory worker in town – she was a little too sexy, a little too fierce. The kids feared her, the men lusted after her," Arnika says with a smirk. "She had this undeniable energy, and I wanted to bring that into my designs."
The collection itself balanced structured silhouettes with elements of softness, blurring the line between industrial workwear and sensual rebellion. Fitted fishnet stockings peeked through deconstructed knitwear, while oversized, oil-slicked jackets gave way to sheer, body-hugging jersey dresses. Plaid, in a nod to traditional fisherman’s attire, was deconstructed into asymmetrical cuts, mirroring the unpredictable movement of the sea. "It’s about Nordic island women – women who are powerful, a little dangerous, but also deeply alluring,“ Arnika explains.
One of the standout pieces of the collection was a reinterpretation of the Danish factory clog, reimagined with an impossibly high, hooked heel – part sculpture, part footwear. "It’s inspired by a fish hook, something a little alien, but also strangely familiar," Arnika noted, referencing her signature approach of blending utility with unexpected sensuality.
The show also marked a significant moment for Arnika as she solidified her position in Berlin’s fashion scene. Having moved to the city 12 years ago from Denmark, she’s become a staple in the creative community, though she acknowledges the challenges of being an independent designer in a rapidly commercializing Berlin. "It’s amazing, for sure, in terms of the community around us, but it’s also incredibly hard to get any kind of funding. The cultural scene is struggling. But at the end of the day, it’s about the people – we push each other to create something special, to remind the world that Berlin is still a cultural force."
Her growing global influence has been cemented by high-profile supporters, including Charli XCX and Kylie Jenner, who have both worn her designs. "Last year was a moment for me. I felt like I really honed in on what I wanted to do, and the response was overwhelming. Charli wearing my pieces, and then Kylie – it was a surreal experience, but it just confirmed that I’m on the right path."
When asked about showing during Copenhagen Fashion Week, Arnika was candid about her decision to remain in Berlin. "I love Copenhagen, and I love what they’re doing there. But Berlin still has this grunginess that feels right for me. Scandinavian fashion is often seen as minimal and pristine, but where I grew up, it was different – it was workwear, it was hardcore. I think I fit in better here."
See the full Sia Arnika autumn/winter '25 collection below:
