Soeren Le Schmidt on ice: See all the looks from the Danish designer's latest runway show

Danish fashion designer Soeren Le Schmidt just held his first runway show in over a year: a wintry spectacle in the heart of Copenhagen, presenting a collection of 40 new designs. Staged at the public ice rink in the historic Kongens Nytorv square, the catwalk unfolded directly on the ice, featuring a mix of models and professional ice skaters. “I wanted this show to take place in a public square for everyone to see and be part of,” Le Schmidt tells Vogue Scandinavia. “I design for everyone – for all ages, all body types, all genders.”

As the music began, models entered the rink one by one, alternating between black and white ensembles. One model, with slicked-back blonde hair, reflective sunglasses and a tight-fitting hooded top paired with wide cargo trousers in all-black, stepped onto the ice. Behind him, another model exited, wearing a large white feathered hat with wavy edges and a rounded top. Between the models, skaters in other outfits from the collection glided gracefully through the rink, their movements set to the thumping beats of electronic music – a striking contrast to the 19th-century Royal Danish Theatre and the Christmas-lit façade of the D’Angleterre hotel serving as a beautiful backdrop. The show concluded with a smiling Le Schmidt making his way around the rink in an all-black ensemble of wide-leg trousers, a turtleneck, and blazer.

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The collection presented was a series of upcycled pieces from Le Schmidt’s archives, reimagined with updated silhouettes and materials. “There are old wedding dresses as well as pieces worn on red carpets around the world,” the designer explains. “The idea was to show, in an open setting, that despite their original purpose, these pieces can be worn in many different ways and for various occasions.” In curating the designs, Le Schmidt aimed to showcase the full breadth of his work through a variety of materials and elements. “There’s red carpet couture, feathers combined with heavy wool, and different types of suiting,” he says. “I paired these with mini dresses, grand wedding gowns, and tailor-made suits, all complemented by oversized hats.”

The choice of a black-and-white colour palette was intentional, designed to draw attention to the tailoring and craftsmanship behind each piece without the distraction of bold colours. “It’s for people to take in the patterns,” Le Schmidt explains. “I think adding colour would have made things a bit noisy.” Ever since launching his eponymous brand in 2017, Le Schmidt’s creations have earned him widespread recognition, particularly for his bespoke work for high-profile clients Recent highlights include four gowns for Princess Sofia of Sweden for the latest Vogue Scandinavia cover shoot. Among the included pieces is a striking dress crafted from a silk-viscose blend in Yves Klein’s iconic shade of blue. The simple silhouette is elevated by expertly draped fabric wrapping the waist and shoulders, creating a dynamic interplay of structure and movement. “It’s been a privilege and a significant milestone,” says Le Schmidt. Another notable design is the coronation dress for Queen Mary of Denmark, crafted from white silk with long sleeves, a cowl neck, and a belted skirt featuring a silver buckle.

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Before today’s show, Le Schmidt’s last runway appearance was during Copenhagen Fashion Week autumn/winter '23. However, he realised the traditional schedule didn’t align with his brand, so he opted to present his designs in a way that better suits his vision – even if it meant stepping outside the conventional fashion week calendar. “What I design isn’t seasonal,” he explains. This approach also works better with his production calendar, particularly with the upcoming 2025 awards season. “I focus on tailor-made suits and evening gowns,” he explains. “I’ve figured out how to work with my clients’ schedules.” With a busy season ahead, Le Schmidt has plenty to look forward to, including a new collaboration with a heritage Danish interior design brand, which he hinted at. For now, however, he’s pleased that the show unfolded successfully, with no rain to disrupt its outdoor setting. Instead, the biting cold of a December evening proved to be perfectly fitting for the occasion.

See all the snapshots from the Soeren Le Schmidt show on ice below: