In major Danish fashion news, Soeren Le Schmidt has been announced as Head of Design at By Malene Birger. We speak to the designer about his plans for the beloved Copenhagen-based brand
Here in Scandinavia we aren’t immune to the designer musical chairs sweeping the fashion industry and this week came the news of a Danish doozy; Soeren Le Schmidt is taking on the role of Head of Design at By Malene Birger. Best known for his namesake brand, which has long been a red carpet favourite amongst Scandinavian royals and actors alike, Le Schmidt felt this was the right time to “embrace a new challenge”, describing the new appointment as “an honour”. “By Malene Birger has always been a prominent name in Danish fashion, known for its sophisticated and timeless designs,” says Le Schmidt. "As a fellow Dane and fashion professional, I have long admired the brand’s commitment to quality and its ability to capture the essence of modern elegance. While I haven’t collaborated with the brand before, its influence in the Danish fashion scene has been significant throughout my career.”
The tides of change came to By Malene Birger back in December, when it was announced that creative director Maja Dixdotter, who brought a certain understated bohemian elegance to the brand since her appointment in 2020, would be moving on. Shortly thereafter, it was announced that Emilie Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt, the owner of the brand, would be taking over as creative director. To that end, the appointment of Le Schmidt comes as a bit of a surprise, albeit a thrilling one.
Le Schmidt and his twin sons at his namesake brand's Copenhagen ice-rink runway show in December 2024. Photo: Jannick Børlum
Photo: Jannick Børlum
A master of tailoring, Le Schmidt’s own brand revels in sculptural minimalism, an aesthetic point of view that could lend itself nicely to By Malene Birger. “The core of By Malene Birger’s aesthetic lies in its sophisticated minimalism and timeless elegance,” says Le Schmidt. “Preserving the brand’s dedication to high-quality materials, impeccable tailoring, and versatile designs is essential. I particularly admire how the brand seamlessly blends classic styles with contemporary touches, creating pieces that resonate with modern women.”
Balancing both roles will be a rewarding challenge.
Soeren Le Schmidt
While Dixdotter’s approach to the brand was a bit more elegantly relaxed, luxuriating in a palette of beige of brown and textured materials that float around the body, one can imagine a sharper silhouette in the hands of Le Schmidt. “I aim to infuse a fresh perspective by introducing architectural elements and a refined edge to the existing design language,” he says. “My background in bespoke tailoring and emphasis on sustainability will contribute to evolving the brand’s aesthetic, ensuring it remains relevant while honouring its legacy.”
We have some time yet to speculate about Le Schmidt’s first By Malene Birger collection; his first collection for the brand will come in 2026. In the meantime, he will continue to oversee his eponymous label, creating bespoke designs for his loyal clients. “Balancing both roles will be a rewarding challenge, allowing me to bring diverse creative insights to each brand,” he says.