From Princess Sofia to Trine Dyrholm: How Soeren Le Schmidt became the go-to Scandinavian designer for red carpet dressing

Scandinavian designers are best known for elevating the everyday – denim, easy tailoring, a well-appointed knit. That’s to say that when award season rolls around, there aren’t so many local designers to choose from. Enter Soeren le Schmidt, who, over the past decade or so, has carved out a niche as the go-to red carpet designer in the nordics. Already this season, he’s dressed Danish icon Trine Dyrholm for the Golden Globes and our own editor in chief, Martina Bonnier, for the Guldbagge Awards.

“A classic Soeren Le Schmidt design on the red carpet is defined by its graphic, playful, and minimalist aesthetic,” says Le Schmidt. Think sharp silhouettes realised via structured materials. Yes, there’s something distinctly Scandinavian about their to-the-point minimalism, but that doesn’t mean Le Schmidt isn’t afraid of a bit of colour. Though these gowns (and suits, occasionally) pack a punch, the special sauce is the relationship between the look and the woman who’s wearing it. “My designs are meant to complement the person wearing them,” he says. “I believe it’s essential that the individual wears the dress, not the other way around.”

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That isn’t to say that clients of Le Schmidt always play into their pre-determined aesthetic. Rather, working with the designer can be an opportunity to do something different. “I absolutely love designing for the red carpet, and part of that excitement comes from encouraging people to step slightly out of their comfort zones,” he says. “Often, this balance works out beautifully. However, the most important thing is that no one should ever feel like they are wearing a costume. Confidence comes from feeling comfortable in what you’re wearing, and that authenticity always shines through.”

There’s an art to red carpet dressing that goes beyond simply designing a beautiful dress. For Le Schmidt, that means considering the way a gown photographs from different angles, under different lighting. Then there’s the consideration of comfort. Given that most award shows drag on for hours, the client needs to be able to sit comfortably for long stretches of time – a tall order for a sculptural piece. Finally, le Schmidt takes into account personal requests, a bespoke touch that keeps actors and royalty alike coming back to him again and again. “I pay close attention to personal details – like covering a tattoo or a feature the client prefers not to highlight,” he says. “In those cases, the design can elegantly solve these concerns without compromising style.”

For le Schmidt, there have been many special black tie moments, including dressing Princess Sofia for the Nobel Peace Prize (in a dress she wore on the pages of Vogue Scandinavia) and Queen Mary as she stepped out on the balcony during the royal succession in January of last year (the highlight of le Schmidt’s career to date). But another milestone came not when one of his dresses glided down the red carpet, but le Schmidt himself; in 2024, he attended the Academy Awards. “Walking on the world’s most iconic red carpet alongside some of the biggest stars…” he says. “It was truly an unforgettable experience.”