Jewellery

More than 50 years on, this Elsa Peretti design remains a timeless investment

By Eleanor Kittle

Photo: Courtesy of Tiffany & Co.

One of Tiffany & Co.'s most iconic pieces, the appeal of the Bone cuff by Elsa Peretti only grows with time

Whether you are popping in for breakfast, or there to make a sparkling investment, you cannot venture into Tiffany & Co. without coming face-to-face with one of the brand's most iconic designs: the Bone cuff.

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Designed in 1970 at the hand of the late, great Elsa Peretti, who revolutionised the jewellery house during her decades of tenure, the cuff is a piece of jewellery that spearheaded the beginning of an accessories revolution: no gems, no accents, simply sculpture. Moulded to follow the body's natural contours – with the ability to conform to both the left and right wrist – the piece, according to Tiffany&Co. is “a perfect balance of sensuality and intellect, power and grace: a revolutionary vision of femininity.”

Photo: Courtesy of Tiffany&Co.

Originally created in silver, a metal rarely used for fine jewellery, the cuff was inspired by Peretti’s visits to a Capuchin crypt in Rome. As a child, she would take bones from the crypt, fascinated by them – a habit she swears was free of anything macabre. The admiration of the form is quite literally unmissable in her designs. “To translate ideas is magic,” said Peretti of her design. “It takes so long to make a curve, to make sure the curve is well done.” According to the brand, “Peretti explored nature with the acumen of a scientist and the vision of a sculptor.” The resulting creation was something that would embed itself into fashion and jewellery narratives.

Today, 50 years after its conception, the Bone cuff remains one of the most important and influential pieces in jewellery history: pieces from over the years can be seen in the collections of museums globally. Whether worn as a pair, or solo, the cuff is designed to slot comfortably on either wrist, a choice that intentionally allows the design to become one with the wearer. “I have always been interested in mechanics and feel,” the designer is quoted as saying. “Every jewellery piece should be captivating and comforting to wear.”

The cuff has evolved over the years in several metals and colourways – most notably being reimagined with over 100 pavé diamonds to celebrate the 50th anniversary. Peretti's humble silver cuff has transcended times and trends, now solidifying itself half a century later as an ineffable classic. 

Shop Elsa Peretti's iconic design here:

Tiffany&Co.

Elsa Peretti Small Bone Cuff in Sterling Silver