Tiffany & Co.'s latest High Jewellery collection dives into the aquatic archives

The vast archives of Tiffany & Co. are easily compared to the immense depths of the ocean. In which case, the intricate High Jewellery pieces now unveiled in the house's 'Out of the Blue: Blue Book 2023' collection can be likened to the beautiful and enigmatic creatures and life-forms found below the ocean's surface.

According to Nathalie Verdeille, Tiffany & Co's chief artistic officer, the collection both perpetuates and reinvents Jean Schlumberger's vision: to capture the "unparalleled manifestations of majesty and mystery" of the ocean. Spotlighting the unique, awe-inspiring beauty of its most mesmerising inhabitants, the summer collection has seven distinct themes: Shells, Coral, Jellyfish, Pisces, Starfish, Sea Star and Star Urchins.

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With each theme delving into a different wonder of the ocean and possessing its own style accents and geometrics, no facet of aquatic life has been overlooked. From the shell motif encapsulating multi-dimensional qualities of ocean-sculpted objects, to the sea urchin representing an exploration into symmetry and form, the collection embodies the ocean's rich variation and depth. “These creations have a distinct Schlumberger quality and personality to them, but the designs are all new," reveals Anthony Ledru, Chief Executive Officer at Tiffany & Co. "We are certain that he would have been as pleased with each masterpiece as we are."

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Below, we dive into each of the themes from the 'Blue Book 2023: Out of the Blue' collection that are set to make a splash:

Reimagining the starfish in true Schlumberger style, this jewellery silhouette depicts the creature tangled between an exquisite array of opals, aquamarines, tourmalines and beryls, alongside glints of diamond accents. Crafted over a timespan of nearly one thousand five hundred hours, this glimmering necklace is a standout timepiece.

Ethereal and luminescent, this striking Jellyfish brooch honours Schlumberger's work by giving new life to his 'in motion' designs. Rendered to evoke tentacles, the 18k yellow gold and sapphires create a "dancing motion" that mirror the movement of Jellyfish tentacles. To emulate the dome, body-shape, artisans set tanzanites alongside moonstones and diamonds. In homage to Schlumberger, expert craftspeople replicated the hand engraving on his famed La Méduse brooch.

Representing the three-dimensionality of objects sculpted by the ocean, the shell necklace reimagine's nature's marine mollusc and the archival Schlumberger masterpiece simultaneously. Crafted by hand with a palette of custom-cut diamonds, platinum and black opal – exceeding a total of 50 carats – the design is inspired by Schlumberger's iconic shell brooch. Taking approximately 1,900 hours to create, this design can be worn in four ways, including as a necklace.

Playing with the elements of symmetry and form, the star urchin theme embodies the aesthetic drama of the ocean's most quirky and abstract creatures. The design of tanzanites and hand-carved chalcedony create a spiky exterior, with the 'spikes' of over seven hundred and sixty carats trembling to evoke sea movements.

Featuring exuberant hues and an array of mixed stones, this eclectic design mirrors the spectacle which is ocean coral. Featuring emerald-cut tanzanites of over 62 carats nestled within over a thousand diamonds, the design mirrors the intricate detailing that lies within coral reefs.

Presenting custom-cut mother of pearl starfish intertwined in coral motifs, the sea star aims to showcase a snapshot of the ocean's fascinating ecosystem. To represent its complexity, exceedingly rare padparadscha sapphires, umba sapphires, mother-of-pearl and carnelians are incorporated.

In contrast to the rest of the pieces, this warm tone 'Pisces' design harmonises with the cool blues of the ocean. With the pisces theme aiming to explore the unknown, infinite aquatic world that held long-standing fascination for Schlumberger, the agile stone scales emulate the imperfect wonder of natural geometry.

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