Two months after Peter Hawkings stepped down as create director of Tom Ford, Haider Ackermann has come in to pick up the reins. In light of the announcement, Vogue looks back at how to founder and his successor's visions intersect throughout their relative collections
News of a personnel change at a brand – like Haider Ackermann heading to Tom Ford – inevitably sparks a wildfire of online analysis and conjecture. Predictions are one thing, but performance another. Still there is the visual evidence of past work to consider, which is what we’ve done in the pairings below. These groupings have nothing to do with chronology, and there’s no suggestion that one designer influenced the other, only that Ford and Ackermann share certain aesthetic predilections, such as for an attenuated and narrow silhouette, and unexpected mixes, like a cargo pocket on evening pants or a tank with a draped lace skirt or elaborately pleated trousers.
Wrapping waists with dramatic belts is another commonality, as are precision cuts that frame the skin provocatively. Notably, both designers have a weak spot for the soft seduction of velvet. These are instances in which their visions run parallel, it will be how Ackermann balances legacy and newness that will determine the next chapter of a brand associated with sex and sophistication.
Tom Ford, spring 2019 ready-to-wear Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
Haider Ackermann, fall 2016 ready-to-wear Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv
Tom Ford, spring 2016 ready-to-wear Photo: Courtesy of Tom Ford
Haider Ackermann for Ruffo Research, spring 2003 ready-to-wear Photo: Shoot Digital for Style.com
Tom Ford, spring 2020 ready-to-wear Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
Haider Ackermann, spring 2011 ready-to-wear Photo: Simone Leonardi / GoRunway.com
Tom Ford, spring 2022 ready-to-wear Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Haider Ackermann, spring 2016 ready-to-wear Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigitalimages.com
Tom Ford, fall 2013 ready-to-wear Photo: Yannis Vlamos / InDigital | GoRunway
Haider Ackermann, fall 2020 ready-to-wear Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Tom Ford, spring 2019 ready-to-wear Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Haider Ackermann, spring 2004 ready-to-wear Photo: Marcio Madeira
Tom Ford, fall 2016 ready-to-wear Photo: Courtesy of Tom Ford
Haider Ackermann, spring 2015 ready-to-wear Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigitalimages.com
Tom Ford, spring 2018 ready-to-wear Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Haider Ackermann, spring 2010 ready-to-wear Photo: Marcio Madeira
Tom Ford, fall 2020 ready-to-wear Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
Haider Ackermann, fall 2013 ready-to-wear Photo: Marcus Tondo / InDigital | GoRunway
Tom Ford, fall 2013 ready-to-wear Photo: Yannis Vlamos / InDigital | GoRunway
Haider Ackermann, spring 2017 ready-to-wear Photo: Umberto Fratini / Indigital.tv
Tom Ford, fall 2016 ready-to-wear Photo: Courtesy of Tom Ford
Haider Ackermann, spring 2018 ready-to-wear Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv
Tom Ford, fall 2013 ready-to-wear Photo: Yannis Vlamos / InDigital | GoRunway
Haider Ackermann, all 2020 ready-to-wear Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Tom Ford, spring 2019 ready-to-wear Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Haider Ackermann, spring 2015 ready-to-wear Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigitalimages.com
Tom Ford, fall 2020 ready-to-wear Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Jean Paul Gaultier, spring 2023 couture Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Tom Ford, fall 2022 ready-to-wear Photo: Courtesy of Tom Ford
Haider Ackermann, fall 2016 ready-to-wear Photo: Kim Weston Arnold /Indigital.tv