Where to eat, drink, stay and shop in Vilnius, Lithuania’s quietly cool capital

There’s a quiet confidence to Vilnius – a city that’s got something special but need not boast about it. Sure, there are the extraordinary churches that dot seemingly every street, the stunningly preserved old town (deemed a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994), the baroque flourishes and bell towers. But its greatest asset is its potent mix of past and future. The Lithuanian capital carefully preserves its old world aesthetics and, in doing so, its history whilst it welcomes a new wave of Michelin-starred restaurants, boutique luxury hotels and brands helmed by young creatives (not to mention, an almost impossibly cool nightlife).

Best of all, Vilnius is just a short flight from the Scandinavian capitals, making it the ideal weekend getaway (better make it a long weekend – there’s plenty to pack in). Below, the can’t-miss spots in Vilnius, an emerging Baltic hotspot.

Nestled within a refurbished 400-year-old mansion in old town called Senatorių pasažas (Senators Passage), one finds Nineteen18. With its 10-plus course tasting menu and Michelin star, its minimalist interiors and tasteful table settings, this sustainability-focused restaurant is unapologetically fine dining. Still, when a meal kicks off with a shot of Lithuanian moonshine “served” by a stuffed animal unicorn, you know you haven’t arrived at your typically stuffy establishment (an approach beloved here in Scandinavia). Things only go up from there, with an updated take on chef Andrius Kubilius’ grandma’s dumplings, a decadent play on a Foie gras burger (complete with relish) and a dessert dish peppered with frozen ants (really). A can’t-miss meal, even if after the moonshine and a homemade negroni, your memory of every dish might be a bit foggy.

Bustling cafe Druska Miltai Vanduo (salt, water, flour) offers a pleasing menu of breakfast dishes (Vilnius knows its way around an eggs Benedict) centred around outrageously delicious homemade breads (for those looking for something stronger than coffee, there’s a great selection of wine as well as brunch-friendly cocktails). Located within Paupio turgus, an upscale, plant-filled market boasting a slew of grab-and-dine restaurants, DMV – which is never not packed with locals – reigns supreme. Don’t miss the burnt Basque cheesecake, so delicious I heard it’s made at least one customer shed a tear.

HeJi, the new-to-the-scene asian fusion Mecca is steeped in unapologetic, over-the-top decadence. It took five years to reconstruct (and made its way into the Michelin guide just four months after opening its doors) and it shows. Hand-painted walls, hand-carved wood, extraordinary mosaics, flourishes of gold, cinematic staircases – everything about HeJi is deliciously grand making every visit an instant occasion (the interiors are courtesy of renowned Ukrainian designer Kateryna Mardanova of Mardanova Design).

Speaking of delicious, whether you dine a la cart or take the tasting menu (we did), expect an extraordinary decadence worthy of the surroundings (think caviar-topped fatty tuna in pasty crust and a whole pigeon that will knock your socks off), all courtesy of head chef Aleksandras Fedorovicius (who cut his teeth at fine dining joints across Scandinavia). As an added bonus, our visit was set to the tune of violinist Valdemar Littauer Bendixen (who played from one of the restaurant’s massive bird cages, of course). Finish with a glass of champagne (they’ve got over 100 kinds) in the champagne bar.

Set in an intimate space with low vaulted ceilings, Ertlio Namas, the brainchild of chef and founder Tomas Rimydis, offers a modern twist on old world Lithuanian cuisine, served with a charming backstories detailing the the history of the dish. Take, for instance, the beer and bread soup (we learned that Lithuanians once drank beer in place of water) or the pheasant served with apples. It’s a meal that embodies everything you’ll come to love about Vilnius – the delightful mashup of old and new that gives way to something totally unexpected.

This bustling cafe, tucked in the Mo Museum, is a perfect lunch spot for eggs and mimosas. But the standout at Mo Bistro is the sandwiches, served on thick, homemade brioche and sourdough and stacked so thick, eating one is a bit of a project (well worth it, of course). Plus, there’s the charming bright interiors and the promise of a visit to the museum before or after lunch.

And, of course, don’t miss a refreshing bowl of šaltibarščiai – better known as ‘pink soup’ – and a heaping plate of cepelinai, available at any number of joints in old town. We had ours at local mainstay Amatininku uzeiga.

Mellow Jewellery Creative House has already caught the eye of more than a few Scandinavian cool girls (stylists, especially) and it’s easy to see why. What started as statement pieces founder Melita Rus fashioned from bits found in a garage (think screws and bolts) has evolved into the sort of handcrafted jewellery (many of which is fashioned at her work desk in the back of the showroom) that defines one’s overall sense of style. But the special sauce is that Mellow doesn’t shy away from featuring precious stones and diamonds, giving way to standout pieces worth the investment. Unsurprisingly, Mellow has become a destination for engagement rings bestowed to in-the-know fashion girls (in fact, Rus keeps a Rolodex of their preferences on file for when their boyfriends come shopping).

Enter Smells Like Spells, an impossibly charming shop founded by locals Vilius Malinauskas and Marius Bartkevicius and you’ll leave with more than just a delicious smelling, aesthetically pleasing candle or room perfume. Any given visit comes complete with tarot reading (Malinauskas has been practising since he was a teenager), a deeper understanding of one’s Nordic rune sign and, if you’re lucky, a glass of champagne from the fridge in the newly excavated basement (soon there will be workshops down there, too). Also on offer, a standout collection of candles held in vessels decorated with works by famed Lithuanian silkscreen artist Mikalojus Povilas Vilutis (true works of art). Each piece on offer has a deeper meaning and may or may not be literally magical. And if you can’t make it to the flagship, one can also find Smells Like Spells’ candles here in Stockholm, at The Viking Museum.

One of Vilnius’ most unexpected delights, Make Heads Turn offers hand-designed pins so charming they’ve become a local mainstay (really – they sell them in just about every cute shop in town). What started as a passion project from founder Goda Narijauskaite just over a decade ago has grown into a (modest) pin empire, featuring designs that range from Lithuanian delights (pink soup, classic street cars) to tennis rackets, cats, glasses of wine and mushrooms. The pins, which are fully realised by an all-female team in Vilnius, even made it into Billie Eilish’s latest Vogue story. Also on offer, Goda’s new venture: a sunglass brand dubbed Supernormal (though these chunky frames are hardly usual). Like her beloved pins, they’re an effortless way to add pizazz to any fit.

A go-to for Lithuanian It girls (television personalities, especially), Undress – which just recently opened its standalone shop – offers locally-made, timeless occasion wear (not to mention everyday frocks that seamlessly transition from the office to cocktail hour). In lieu of fleeting trends, founder and designer Ana Savicka creates the sort of pieces seamlessly adaptable to any wardrobe. The beauty is in the sweet simplicity – think twist neck midi-frocks with gentle A-line skirts and no-nonsense mini dresses that hug the body (it’s no surprise that many beloved Scandinavian brands turn to Undress’ Vilnius production facility to round out their own collections). For those looking to make more of a statement, there’s standout leopard prints and sequin embellishments. A dress for every occasion.

Founded in Lithuania in 2010 by Siulvede (a modest factory that also produces for the likes of Acne Studios and Ted Baker), local label InAvati is quickly gaining a following abroad (particularly here in the Nordics) thanks to its take on covetable essentials. Think elegant tailoring (relaxed suits, sharp vests), shirt dresses with gentle bell sleeves and, perhaps most notably, coats – double breasted camel coats, easy black overcoats, cropped checkered coats… In fact, it’s the local leader when it comes to outerwear and it’s easy to see why. Plus, that signature puffer hood is about to make me the envy of all my Swedish friends.

All the most beloved Lithuanian brands (including Smells Like Spells and Make Heads Turn) gathered under one roof.

Housed in a centuries-old mansion, Hotel Pacai is a feast for the senses. First, there’s the singularly stunning aesthetics, which use modern flourishes (subtle spot lighting, sleek hardwood floors) to highlight its historic frescos and textured stone walls. Add to that exceptional dining (the restaurant Muros is included in the Michelin guide, which specifically calls out the prowess of sommelier Kamilė Bartusevičiūtė ), Hästens beds, effortlessly excellent service and a subterranean spa with distinctly modern services (I recommend the face massage after a night out) and you have yourself a stay that’s near perfection. It even smells amazing.

Tucked away in an unassuming corner of downtown Vilnius, Adata bar is an impossibly cool listening bar with if-you-know-you-know appeal. Wood panelling, excellent cocktails and a collection of rare vibe-heavy vinyl. Need I say more?

Beloved by locals and tourists alike, Distilerija is a can’t-go-wrong watering hole that’s never not bustling. Right in the heart of the action, it’s got a great cocktail list and a great vibe.

Across from the Opera house, one finds a dingy, flickering neon sign that marks the entrance to Opera Social House. Through a creepy reception plucked from a haunted hotel and up a very tiny elevator one emerges into a perfectly strange dive bar beloved by too-hip locals (in the summertime, there’s a great patio). Plus, there’s pizza.

A functioning prison until just a few years ago, Lukiškės Prison 2.0 is one of Vilnius’ most unique visits. These days, it serves as an art and culture space (and the backdrop to season four of Stranger Things) as well as a potent reminder of the city’s not-so-distant, less-savoy history. Whether you take a full tour of the facilities (our guide, Viktorija, brought a memorable gallows humour to the experience) or simply head to the bar for a beverage, it’s a visit you won’t forget.