Everything you need to know about Scandinavian liquorice, the region’s favourite treat

Foreigners visiting the Nordics often notice our bike paths, pristine nature, anti-hierarchical workplaces, and progressive schooling systems – and, of course, our famous love of liquorice. But we’re not talking about the sweet, mild kind you might find in other countries. No, it’s the salty, fiery, and bold variety that we Scandinavians adore. When it comes to the craving for salt ammoniac liquorice, also called salmiak, we truly are in the minority on a global scale.

According to the Disgusting Food Museum in Malmö, there are only six nations that love the salty liquorice: Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Finland, Iceland, and the Netherlands. At the tasting counter in the museum, you can discover samples of different foods that are notorious for dividing opinion and whose popularity depends on whether you grew up with the food in question. This is what we call an acquired taste.

At the museum’s counter, you’ll find an assortment of unusual 'delicacies': beetles, caterpillars, Kalle’s Kaviar (a Swedish roe spread), particularly pungent cheeses like England’s ‘Stinking Bishop’ (a washed-rind cheese), and Sardinia’s su callu (goat kid’s rennet cheese) – all available for you to nibble and form your opinion. And finally, at the utmost disgust level with the Icelandic specialty hákarl and the Swedish surströmning, respectively fermented shark and herring, you’ll find the salty liquorice. Represented by svenskjävlar (Swedish devils), they are branded with the pay off: “The saltiest liquorice in the world”.

For a Scandinavian, this point at the tasting counter is a wonderful break from the vomit-inducing food samples, but for visitors from the rest of the world, the little svenskjävlar are gross at the highest level. Taste if you dare.

Below, we take a closer look at Scandinavian liquorice, the potential reasons why we're so obsessed with the polarising delight, as well as from where to source the best liquorice in each Nordic country.

Related: Meet Denmark’s king of liquorice Johan Bülow

Liquorice root, which originates from the Middle East and Asia, is believed to have arrived in Europe sometime in the 13th century. For centuries, it was used to treat ailments such as coughs and digestive issues, before transitioning from medicine to candy in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Denmark became a pioneering country in liquorice production, with companies like Galle & Jessen – known for their Ga-Jol pastilles – introducing some of the first tastes of the tangy treat in the Nordics. The Scandinavian twist to achieve the special, salty flavour was to add ammonium chloride, and et voilà – our region's perennial favourite delight was born.

But how did companies come to add ammonium chloride to liquorice, you might ask? The combination of liquorice and ammonium chloride was initially used in medicinal lozenges designed to soothe coughs and clear airways. Apparently, these lozenges not only provided respiratory relief but also tasted good enough to become popular as a delicacy. Enter companies like Galle & Jessen, which transformed this medicinal mix into candy.

There’s no clear explanation as to why we Scandis love our zesty sweets so much. In fact, the Nordic countries collectively consume 80–90 per cent of the world’s liquorice production. But the question remains: Why do we hold such veneration for a product that can potentially harm us? In large amounts, ammonium chloride can have a decalcifying effect on bones, which is why children’s intake should be limited. In Denmark, liquorice products containing more than 5 percent ammonium chloride were once required to be labeled 'adult liquorice – not children’s liquorice.' What’s more, the acid can even contribute to high blood pressure, so salty liquorice should not be consumed in excessive quantities. Across the EU, the use of ammonium chloride in foods is generally prohibited, but the Nordic countries have a special exemption allowing it to be added to sweets.

Ammonium chloride is also used as an ingredient in hair shampoo, certain types of glue, cleaning products, and even batteries – not exactly appetising. And yet, no Scandi wants their liquorice taken away. Our love for this unique treat might stem from a long tradition of preserving food with salt, making the savoury yet sweet flavour of liquorice familiar and comforting to our taste buds. The blend of salty and sweet is a common theme in Nordic cuisine, found in delicacies like cured and pickled bites, including the infamous, aforementioned pickled herring, or surströmming – a quintessentially Swedish treat (to Swedes, at least).

Related: The surströmming challenge: Unpacking Scandinavia's smelliest canned delicacy

At the beginning of the 2000s, liquorice began to appear in places where it had not been seen before. It was no longer firmly defined as a piece of candy, but could appear in chewing gums, cakes, ice cream and other desserts. At a certain time – when the liquorice trend was at its peak – you couldn't find a flødebolle (Danish chocolate covered marshmallow), a cookie or a piece of chocolate that wasn't sprinkled with liquorice powder. Even for a liquorice aficionado it got a little too much. Fortunately, things have found a more reasonable level now.

Liquorice powder, syrup, and spread have become well-integrated into savoury cooking, embraced by both professional and amateur chefs. Marinating pork or chicken in liquorice and grilling it with fennel creates a wonderful, flavour-bursting combination. On the beverage side, a dash of liquorice can elevate a cocktail with a unique, taste-bud-tingling twist, and it has also gained popularity in herbal teas. And then, of course, there's the Finnish classic Salmari – vodka infused with salty liquorice extract – which, much like Scandinavian snaps, is downed in shots at celebrations, bars and night clubs.

A small amount of liquorice adds a pleasant depth to flavours – often without it being immediately recognisable as liquorice, yet it contributes to the dish's rich and layered taste. See? The Scandinavians might just be onto something here.

Related: 'Yes, Chef!': These are the 7 Scandinavian superfoods to try for glowy skin and a healthy gut

Scandinavian liquorice isn’t a treat for every taste bud, but it’s definitely worth a try – especially with the wide range of Nordic brands offering their own unique spins on the delicacy, combining it with other flavours to create irresistible combinations (think Lakrids by Bülow's passion fruit-flavoured candy coated liquorice, for instance.) And who knows? You might discover that, like us Scandis, you can’t get enough of it. To experience it for yourself, consider sourcing your salty liquorice from one of the renowned Nordic brands and producers listed below.

Denmark:
To be found everywhere: Blue Jeans, Heksehyl (named after a noisy kind of fireworks), Piratos, Toms and Ga-Jol.

Premium: Bagsværd lakrids (award-winning, Danish liquorice caramels) and of course Lakrids by Bülow which has really put a pin in the liquorice world map.

Sweden:
To be found everywhere: Djunglevrål and Cloetta's liquorice.

Premium: Kolsvart and Haupt’s Svenskjävlar (the saltiest liquorice in the world) and the brand Nordisk Lakritskök. Make sure also to check out the Södermalm-located Lakritshandel in Stockholm, a story dedicated to all sorts of liquorice delights, from the traditional candy to even liquorice flavoured potato chips.

Finland:
Finnish lakritsi is soft and bouncy and exists in both a sweet and a salty version, that is simply known as Finnish liquorice in other countries. Try to taste them against one another. The best companies to produce the specific Finnish liquorices are Panda, Kouvolan Lakritsi, Brunberg and Fazer, all of which can be found in supermarkets. Consider also trying Fazer's 'Tyrkisk Pebers' (extra spicy hard candy for the most daring tasters, also sold in Sweden).

Iceland:
To be found everywhere: Sterkur Draumur (a liquorice chocolate bar translating to 'strong dream') and Sambo þristur (chocolate fudge, filled with liquorice pieces).